Istanbul is at its best in late May and early September, when temperatures are mild and sunshine is plenti-
ful. High season, from June toAugust, is the most expen sive, crowded and hottest time to visit, but the summer arts and music festivals are highlights in the city’s cultural calendar. LateNovember until March or April can be damp and dreary.

However, Istanbul is still mild in autumn and winter and, with fewer tour parties around, you can enjoy
the sights in peace. As well as arts and sporting events, several public holidays and religious festivals punctuate the year. It is wise to be aware of these when planning an itinerary as some sights may be closed or else crammed with locals enjoying a day out. Some of these celebrations are also fascinating spectacles in their own right.

SPRING
As the winter smog fades and sunshine increases, cafés and restaurants prepare for the first wave of alfresco dining. After a winter’s diet of apples and oranges, a welcome crop of spring fruits, including fresh figs, strawberries and tart green plums, arrives in the shops. Toasted sweetcorn is sold from carts, and a spring catch of sea bream, sea bass and turbot is on the menu. Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils and pansies fill parks and gardens, and the distinctive pink buds of the Judas tree are seen along the Bosphorus.
Monuments and museums are generally uncrowded in spring, and discounts are available at many hotels. In May the popular son et lumière shows outside the Blue Mosque begin and continue until September.

EVENTS
Easter (March or April).
Pilgrimage to the Monastery of St George on Büyükada in the Princes’ Islands. International Istanbul Film
Festival (late March–mid-April), selected cinemas. Screening of Turkish and foreign films and related events.

Tulip Festival (April), Emirgan Park. Displays of springtime blooms.

National Sovereignty Day (23April). Public holiday marking the inauguration of theTurkishRepublic in 1923. Children take to the streets in folk costume.

Commemoration of the Anzac Landings(25 April),
Gallipoli. Britons, Australians and New Zealanders gather at the location of theAnzac landings at Gallipoli during World War I.
Spring Day and Workers’ Day(1 May).

Unofficial public holiday when workers usually attend union-organized rallies.

Kakava Festival (early May), Edirne. Acelebration of gypsy A music and dance.

Youth and Sports Day(19 May). Public holiday in commemoration of the start of the War of Independence in 1919, with sporting events and other activities held throughout the city in stadiums and on the streets.

International Istanbul Theatre Festival (May–June), various venues. European and Turkish productions.

Conquest of Istanbul (29 May), between Tophane and Karaköy and on the shores of the upper Bosphorus. Mehmet theConqueror’s taking of the city in 1453 is reenacted in street parades and mock battles.

SUMMER
In contrast to an all-too-brief spring, the warm weather and clear skies of summer can linger on in Istanbul until November. In July and August temperatures soar and although luxury hotels have air conditioning, cheaper ones do not.
Popular sights are packed with tourists throughout the high season. Picturesque locations outside Istanbul may, on the other hand, be overrun by locals. At weekends city dwellers trek out to the Belgrade Forest and Black Sea beaches or to health clubs along the Bosphorus. Those who can afford it flee to their coastal summer homes until autumn.
For those who stay behind there is a strong summer culture. This includes a wild nightlife in hundreds of bars and night spots, and enthusiastic support for many arts festivals, which attract world-famous performers.
Look out, too, for events taking place in historical buildings. You may be able to listen to classical music in Haghia Eireneor enjoy a pop concert in the Fortress of Europe on the Bosphorus. This is also the best
time of year for outdoor sports such as hiking, horse-riding, water sports, golf and parachuting.
In summer, the menu focuses more on meat than fish, but vegetables and fresh fruit – such as honeydew melons, cherries, mulberries, peaches and apricots – are widely available. In July and August many shops
have summer sales.

EVENTS
Silk Market(June–July), Bursa. Special market for the sale of silk cocoons.

International Istanbul Music and Dance Festival (mid-June–July). Classical music, opera and dance
performed in historic locations. Mozart’sAbduction from the Seraglioisstaged annually in Topkapı Palace.

Bursa Festival (June–July), Bursa Park. Music, folk dancing, plays, opera and shadow puppetry.

Navy Day(1 July). Parades of old and new boats along theBosphorus.

International Istanbul Jazz Festival (July), various venues. International event with a devoted following.

International Sailing Races (July). Regatta held at the Marmara Islands

Grease Wrestling(July), Kırkpınar, Edirne. Wrestlers smeared in olive oil grapple with each other.

Hunting Festival (3 days, late July), Edirne. Music, art and fishing displays.

Folklore and Music Festival (late July), Bursa. Ethnic dances and crafts displays.
Festival of Troy(August), çanakkale. Re-enactment of the tale of Troy

Victory Day(30 August). Public holiday commemorating victory over Greece in 1922.

AUTUMN
Residents of Istanbul often consider their city to be at its best in autumn. As the summer heat loses its grip, chestnut sellers appear on the streets, pumpkins are sold in the markets, and fresh figs are eaten in abundance. In the surrounding countryside, cotton, wheat and sunflowers are harvested. Migratory grouper and bonito are among the tastiest types of fish which are caught at this time of year.
A popular beauty spot for its array of autumn colours is Lake Abant, 200 km (125 miles) east of Istanbul. Meanwhile, bird-watchers converge on the hills overlooking the Bosphorus to view great flocks of migratory birds head- ing for their warm wintering grounds in Africa.
On the cultural agenda is a world-class arts biennial and an antiques fair which blends Several public holidays reaffirm Turkey’s commitment to secularism, including Republic Day in late October, during
which flags are hung from balconies. The bridges over the Bosphorus  are hung with particularly huge
flags.

EVENTS
Tüyap Arts Fair(September), opposite the Pera Palas Hotel. A showcase of Istanbul’s artistic talent.

Yapı Kredi Festival (September), various venues. A celebration of music and dance promoting young performers.

Republic Day (29 October)  Public holiday commemorat ing Atatürk’s proclamation of the Republic in 1923. The Turkish flag adorns buildings in the city.

Akbank JazzFestival (October), various venues. Jazz music.

InternationalIstanbul FineArts Biennial 2007 (October–November every two years). International and
local avant-garde artists exhibit work in historic locations such as Haghia Eirene and the Imperial Mint , and the Basilica Cistern.

Anniversary of Death(10 November). A minute’s silence is observed at 9:05am, the precise time of Atatürk’s death in Dolmabahçe Palace in 1938.

Tüyap Book Fair(October), Belikduzu Fair and Congress Centre. Istanbul’s premier publishing event showcases prominent writers.

Efes Pilsen BluesFestival (early November), selected venues. Foreign and local blues bands play in popular
music venues throughout the city.

Interior DesignFair (first weekof November), çırağan Palace Hotel Kempinski. Interior designers and
antique dealers display upmarket wares in this popular annual show.

Elit’s Küsav Antiques Fair (mid-November), Military Museum. Sale of local and foreign paintings, furniture, carpets, maps, books, porcelain, textiles, silver, clocks and bronze statuary.

WINTER
There are distinct bonuses to visiting Istanbul in the winter, when even major sights are uncrowded, although the rain, fog and pollution may be off- putting. Shops in the Akmerkez, Galleria, Capitol and Carousel malls hold sales, making the city a shopper’s paradise for leather, woollens and fashion.
Outside Istanbul, when enough snow has fallen on the mountains, the ski season begins in Uludağ,
one of Turkey’s most important winter sports resorts. Meanwhile, tea with baklava and cream cakes is consumed in the cosy cafés along the Bosphorus and in the old quarter of Beyoğlu.
EVENTS
MevlânaFestival (17–24 December), Mevlevi Monastery. Enthusiastic Istanbul devotees perform
special dances in honour of the founder of the famous Whirling Dervishes.

Christmas (late December). Though Christmas Day is not a public holiday, major hotels organize seasonal festivities.
NewYear’s Day (1 January). Public holiday incorporating European Christmas traditions including eating turkey, decorating trees and partying. Strings of lights adorn the main roads.
Karadam SkiFestival (secondhalf of February), Uludağ Mountain. Competitions organized by local radio
stations and the UludağSki Instructors’ Association.

MUSLIM HOLIDAYS
The dates of Muslim holidays vary according to the phases of the moon and therefore change from year to year. In the holy month of Ramazan, Muslims refrain from eating and drinking between dawn and dusk. Some restaurants are closed during the day, and tourists should be discreet when eating in public. Straight after this is the three-day Şeker Bayramı (Sugar Festival), when sweetmeats are prepared. Two months later the four-dayKurban Bayramı (Feast of the Sacrifice) commemorates the Koranic version of Abraham’s sacrifice. This is the main annual public holiday in Turkey, and hotels, trains and roads are
packed. Strict Muslims also observe the festivals of Regaip Kandili, Miraç Kandili,Berat Kandili andMevlid-i-Nebi.

Istanbul was founded in the 7th century BC on a naturally defensive site from which trade along the Bosphorus could be controlled. For 16 centuries it was a great imperial capital, first of the Byzantine Empire and then of the Ottoman sultans. Some knowledge of the histories of these two civilizations helps the visitor to appreciate the magnificent monuments found throughout the city.

The topography of Istanbul was formed at the end of the last Ice Age, when meltwaters created the Bosphorus. The Stone Age cultures in the areawere replaced by Copper Age villages and walled BronzeAge towns. The Bosphorus was an important trade route in the ancient world along which ships carried wine
and olive oil north from the Mediterranean, and grain, skins, wool, timber, wax, honey, salted meat and salted fish south from regions around the Black Sea.
The area around the Bosphorus was subjugated by a series of peoples, starting with the Mycenaeans (1400– 1200BC). Between 800 and 680 BC the region was controlled by the kingdom of Phrygia. Later, in 676 BC, Greek expeditionaries founded the city of Chalcedon (on the site where modern Kadıköy now stands).
THE FOUNDATION OF BYZANTION
The foundation of Istanbul is usually dated to 667 BC when, according to legend, a Greek colonist, Byzas, led an expedition from the overcrowded cities of Athens and Megara to  establish a colony on the European side of the Bosphorus. This colony, known as Byzantion, grew to be a successful independent city-state, or polis, one of the 40 most important such states throughout the Ancient Greek world. During the next few centuries, Byzantion worked in partnership with Chalcedon, using the same coinage and sharing the tolls exacted from passing sea trade. But Byzantion had to struggle to maintain its independence in the mercurial politics of the ancient world. It endured Lydian (560–546 BC), Persian (546–478 BC), Athenian (478–411BC) and Macedonian (334– 281BC) rule before briefly regaining its autonomy. In 64 BC it was subsumed into the RomanEmpire as Byzantium. The city was almost destroyed in AD 195 bySeptimius Severus because of its support for his rival for the imperial throne, Pescennius Niger. It survived the Goths’ devastation of Chalcedon in AD 258 but trade in the region dramatically declined in the following years.

Istanbul is a frenetic city with a wealth of culture, history and nightlife. Split in two by the Bosphorous Strait, it is the only city in the world to straddle two continents, Europe and Asia, and thus has two contrasting atmospheres. These itineraries are designed to give you a flavour of the city as a whole. All the sights are crossreferenced to the rest of the guide, so you can look up more information and tailor the day to suit your needs. Price guides include meals, transport and admission fees.

SHOPPING AND SEAFOOD
•Refresh your senses in the Spice Bazaar
•Shop for antiques in Çukurcuma
•Haggle in the Grand Bazaar
•Enjoy the buzz on Nevizade Sokak
TWO ADULTS allow US$105
Morning
TheSpice Bazaar is a riot of colour, stalls and smells, where you can buy any number of exotic foodstuffs, including handmadeTurkish delight and creamy goats’ cheese. From here, head up to the bustling Grand Bazaar, a labyrinthine Ottoman shopping complex housing thousands of leather, rug, ceramics and jewellery shops. Prices are inflated and price tags often absent altogether so remember to bargain. All this shopping is bound to whet your appetite, so head for the waterfront district of Kumpkapı, where you will find more than 50 fish restaurants vying for your attention. Again, many outlets do not display prices, so ask before you order.
Afternoon Revived and restored, take a taxi to the GalataBridge and stroll over to trendy Tünel and Beyoğlu, soaking up the view as you go. Take time to browse around the cosy cafés and bars in Tünel, before making your way up İstiklâl Cadessi to shop for clothes, shoes, books and music. Further up, the district of Çukurcuma is a hunting ground for antique furniture and ornaments.
NevizadeSokak, just off İstiklâl Cadessi, is a narrow street lined with dozens of meyhanes. The area really comes alive at night, when hundreds of locals flock here and passers-by are serenaded by traditional musicians.

A FAMILY DAY OUT
•See Istanbul in miniature
•A boat trip to Büyükada
•A horse-drawn carriage ride around Büyükada
FAMILY OF FOURallow US$120
Morning
Catch a bus fromTaksim Square to Miniatürk  located in Sütlüce on the northern shore of the GoldenHorn. The park displays miniatures of the city’s most famous sights, such as HaghiaSophia, as well as other treasures from around the country that reflect Turkey’s rich heritage. There is also a children’s park and a
museum showcasing photographs of Atatürk, the great Turkish leader of the early 20th century, and the wars in Gallipoli. When you get hungry, head to Miniatürk’s attractive café-restaurant that overlooks the Golden Horn.

Afternoon
Head back to Istanbul after lunch and hop on a boat bound for the island of Büyükada, one of the nine that make up the Princes’ Islands 99. It is a one-and-a-half hour trip from the docks at Eminönü, so there is plenty of time to admire the view as Istanbul recedes on the horizon. Once you have landed, stroll around the main square of Saat Meydani or take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the island. Climb the hill toSt George’s Monastery for panoramic views and a meal at the hilltop restaurant.

MOSQUES, MUSEUMS AND HAMAMS
•Byzantine iconography at Haghia Sophia
•Glimpse the past at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
•An awe-inspiring visit to Topkapi Palace
TWOADULTSallow US$140

Morning
Start at the Blue Mosque, perhaps Istanbul’s most elegant Islamic sight, famous for its slender minarets and blue Iznik tiles. Stroll through the welltended garden at the front before making your way to imposing Haghia Sophia, another of Istanbul’s most renowned mosques. Inside is a marvellous array of Byzantine
mosaics, friezes and Iznik blue tile decorations, as well as a huge domed ceiling. Then head to the nearby
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, which has a wonderful collection of glass and metalwork, carpets and manuscripts from down the centuries, as well as modern art from Turkey and overseas. Head toYesil Ev YY for lunch, a lovely Ottoman style restaurant between the museum and Topkapı Palace, serving traditional fare.

Afternoon
You will need at least three YY hours to appreciate Topkapi Palace, a sprawling complex of courtyards, gardens, fountains, a harem and a collection of priceless antiques. Then, at the end of a long day, indulge
in that most Turkish of pleasures, a visit to a Turkish bath. Çemberlitas Baths (see p81)in Sultanahmet
is one of the finest.

UPTHEBOSPHORUS
•A boat up the Bosphorus
•Enjoy views at Fortress of Europe
•Stroll through the pretty village of Bebek
TWO ADULTSallow US$95

Morning
Catch a bus from Taksim Square or Eminönü bus terminus heading for Sarıyer or Emirgan and get off at
Arnavutköy on the Bosphorous. There are some lovingly restored Ottoman houses and mansions to admire here, most of them painted in pastel shades and trimmed with intricate wooden fretwork. Cafés line the back streets, so sit and linger over a coffee and a pastry. From Arnavutköy, continue walking northwards, past the fishing boats and pleasure cruisers bobbing on the water, until you reach Bebek, one of Istanbul’s most affluent villages. There are more than enough chic clothes and antiques shops here to tempt visitors to part with their cash and work up an appetite for lunch. Dine in style at thePoseidon. Here you can sip an aperitif and enjoy the splendid view before savouring the menu of fresh fish.

Afternoon
Delve into history at the imposingFortress of Europe, built in the 15th century as part of the Muslim conquest of Constantinople. There is also a fantastic view of the Bosphorus from here. Afterwards, walk around the delightful 19th-century pavilions of nearby Emirgan Park with its hundreds of pine, fir and cypress trees and an ornamental lake.