Articles Tagged with: istanbul

Join religious pilgrims in Eyüp,located beyond the city walls overlooking the Golden Horn and smartened up in recent years. It’s best known for the religious pilgrimage site of Eyyub-el-Ensar tomb and the Pierre Loti Kahvesi (café) at the top of Eyüb Cemetery. On Fridays and weekends, look out for small boys in white satin costumes, ready (or not?) for their circumcision ceremony (sünnet). Although I suggest ending your tour at Ayvansaray, if you’re here on a Friday morning you could reverse the order to see the Mehter band, follow the parade to Eyüp Meydani. START: Bus 55T from Taksim
or 99 from Eminönü to Eyüp. Shade, view and a glass of tea at Pierre Loti Kahvesi.
1- Teleferik (cable car).
Completed in 2006, the three-minute cable-car ride sweeps up Pierre Loti Hill through the huge
Eyüp Cemetery. The half-hour uphill walk is wonderful, so choose this option if you have neither the time nor inclination for the hike. If you walk down, take a closer look at the Ottoman-era gravestones in the cemetery. The teleferikgets busy at weekends. @30–60 min. Running daily 8am–10pm; 1 TL.

2- Pierre Loti Kahvesi.
Named after the pining Turkophile French novelist who penned Aziyade in 1879 about his lover, this café has Golden Horn views and a shady terrace, one of Istanbul’s best.
Balmumcu Sok, Gümü=suyu Cad. 0212 581 2696. $.
3- Eyüp Camii.

The mosque you see today, built in 1880, replaces the first imperial mosque, built by Mehmet II in 1458
after the Fall of Constantinople. Its vast courtyard was site of the Ottoman Girding of the Sword of
Osman, the enthronement rite where the sword of 13th-century leader Osman Gazi was passed on.
In doing so, the local people watched the ceremony and accepted that the ruler had possession of the city. @15 min. Eyüp Meydani. Open daily dawn–nightfall.

4- Eyyub el Ensari Turbesi (tomb).

Adjacent to the mosque, this shrine is one of Islam’s holiest sites. Standard-bearer and companion of the Prophet Mohammed, Eyüp Sultan (as he was later known) was killed in the 7th century during
battle and buried on the city’s outskirts. Before conquering the city in 1453, Mehmet II rediscovered

Eyüp’s grave and built a shrine and mosque. The tomb still attracts many pilgrims, especially on Fridays, and non-Muslims are welcome wearing modest clothing (see Savvy Traveler Clothingp 166). Inside, vivid blue Iznik tiles in Ottoman Baroque style contrast with the silver sarcophagus. Look out for the footprint of Mohammed in marble stone, framed in silver embedded in the tomb’s wall. @15 min. Eyüp Meydani. Open daily 9am–5pm; free.
5- yüp Meydani (square).

Take a breather to people-watch in this enthralling public square, adjacent to Eyyub el Ensari Turbesiand one of my favorites. During weekends, it’s time to watch family groups gather for photographs, along with their small sons decked out in satin sünnet(cir-cumcision) suits. These lads—usu-ally aged between four and eight— seemingly have no fear of their impending op, but love the attention. This is also the venue for the Friday Mehter band performance (see bullet 8). @15–30 min.
6- Camii Kebir Sokak bazaar.

This great bazaar lines both sides of the pedestrianized street in front of the mosque, catering predominantly for religious visitors. Multi-colored headscarves swirl in the breeze, copies of the
Koran are piled at the stalls, jewelry and trinkets add a touch of glamor and a crackly cassette player usuallyblasts out Koranic or musical recitals. @30 min. Camii Kebir Sok. Open daily 9am–6pm.

Dazzling tiles outside the tomb
7- Mihmandar Lokantasi.

A cut above your average lokanta(simple restaurant), this has outdoor seating near the fountain,
and serves up good kebabs and mezes. Kalenderhane Cad, Eyüp Bulvari. 0212 612 5998. $$.
8- Zal Mahmoud Pa@a Camii (mosque).

Few visitors make it to this dark-stone mosque complex, built by Sinan (see p 11) in 1571, also containing the tomb of Zal Mahmoud Pa@a, Süleyman I’s teacher. Mahmoud, a servant, was in love with Süleyman’s sister but stood no chance, until he strangled Süleyman’s son to thwart an uprising. Mahmoud was rewarded with the title ‘Zal’ (hero)— and marriage. Inside the courtyard a toy-making workshop, recently established by the European Union, attempts to revive the craft famous in Eyüp since the 17th century. I love Friday mornings when the local Mehter band (seeIstanbul with Kids p 40) start rehearsing at 10am before changing into full Ottoman regalia to parade down Feshane Caddesi. Follow the band to Eyüp Meydani for a one-hour performance in front of appreciative locals. @15–30 min. 36 Feshane Caddesi.

9- Tombs and Theodosian Walls.

From Zal Mahmoud Paşa mosque, walk south under the Haliç Bridge down Ayvansaray Caddesi, past the old palace walls on the right.
Enter the grounds of Haci Husrev Mescidi, a small mosque, and take the main gates on the left. Walk
though the gorgeous rose-gardens and past a tomb, then on the left ascend the steps taking you along
Ayvansaray’s old walls, built by Theodosius II in 412 AD to seal Constantinople against invasion. Scramble to the top for views over this traditional area – although the wooden houses might well be spruced up in the future. @30 min.
10- Blachernae Church.

After descending the city walls, walk down Toklu Ibrahim Sokak and follow Kafesci Yumni Sokagi to the left. You’ll see the secluded Blachernae Church (erratic opening hours; try tagging along with a tour group). Originally built in 451AD and once a venerated Byzantine church, this was restored and rebuilt several times. The church today houses the Blachernae ayazma (sacred spring) thought to have heal-
ing powers. These waters dripped into a reservoir behind the building, accumulated into a large pool and then dripped from holes in the hands of a marble relief of the Virgin Mary; the relief was replaced after breakage in 1960. Byzantine times saw emperors plunge three times into the pool.

These days the holy water is poured for the Greek Orthodox worshippers to drink. Services are held every Fri at 9.30am. @15 min. Ayvansaray Kuyusu Sokagi, off Mustafa Paşa Bostani Sok. Open 8am–5pm; services Fri 9.30am.Walk through the old Ayvansaray streets.
In 2007, a row over a name opened a can of worms: The hillside topped by Pierre Loti Kahvesi is known as Pierre Loti Heights, but the mayor of Eyüp wanted it changed to Eyüp Sultan Heights, after the sacred man (see bullet 5), so he put up a new sign at the Teleferik. Local opinion in this conservative enclave divided along secular and religious lines, between those saying Pierre Loti was part of the city’s cultural history, and others feeling that Eyüp Sultan was in keeping with Turkish history. The sign has since been changed back, and all seems to be calm – for now.
Pierre Loti vs Eyüp Sultan

Modern Istanbul’s main artery Istiklal Caddesi is the venue forshopping, football fans, demonstrations and thousands of people day and night. This 3km-long pedestrianized street (Independence Avenue) starts at Taksim Meydaniand goes to Tünel, passing (walk or take the Nostaljic Tram) shops, restaurants, churches, cinemas, mosques and fine architecture. A fire in 1870 meant the streets were rebuilt in Art Nouveau style, bringing a new European style to Pera. Look up at the buildings even if they now house uninspiring stores; the stonework and carvings date back to the more glamorous days when the street was known as Grande Rue de Pera. START: Bus or metro or tram/funicular to Taksim.

1- Cumhuriyet Aniti (Republic Memorial).

This striking arch-shaped monument was made by Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica in 1928 to commemorate the founding of the Turkish republic, and commissioned by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. At last, the post-Ottoman era meant figurative expressions could now be used (previously forbidden in Islam) so on one side we see Atatürk the leader, with Ismet Inönü (the Republic’s first president) and Fevzi Çakmak (soldier and ex-prime minister) marking the foundation of the young Turkish Republic. Walk around the other side of the memorial to see Atatürk with soldiers, representing the War of Independence. It’s an unusual format—not surprising considering it was originally designed as a
square-shaped fountain. This is a hub for political demonstrations, best avoided, especially on May Day, which can get heated (injuries and arrests in 2008). @10 min. Taksim

2- Taksimoda.

The café-bar at the base of Taxim Hill hotel, with its floor-to-ceiling windows open in summer, provides a perfect people-watching spot of crowded Taksim Meydani over a coffee or eggs for breakfast. 5 Siraselviler Caddesi, Taksim Meydani. y0212 334 8500. $$.mosaics of the Virgin Mary and Christ on the left. @15 min.
Entrance off Meselik Sokak, off Istiklal Caddesi. Services Sun 9–11am. Bus, tram/funicular to Taksim.
3- Aya Triada Church.

After five minutes’ walk, you’ll catch your first glimpse of this majestic white church on the left, just off Istiklal Caddesi. Istanbul’s largest Greek Orthodox Church, built in 1880 by Greek architect Kampanaki, is officially only open for Sunday services, although you might be lucky enough to have a quick peep inside if the caretaker is around. If so, you’ll love the sunlight streaming through the
four large circular stained-glass windows, casting deep red and green light throughout. It has less dark wood and gold than many Greek churches; look up to see the frescos above the gallery, and its painted dome. The entrance hall also has a painted ceiling, and NGAR M
4- Emek Pasaj.

One of many ‘pasaj’ running off Istiklal with cheap clothes piled high in the covered alleyway; enter not so much for its tacky accessories but for the original stone ceiling with ornate carvings. It’s obvious that little has been done to preserve or renovate, making it all the more charming. Further inside is the Emek Sinema, in existence since 1920 when it was known as Melek Sinemasi. @10 min.
Most stores open daily 10am–8pm. 56 E Istiklal Cad.

5- Yeşilcam Café.

Also a perfect spot for a winter’s evening, complete with board-games (Istanbul Monopoly anyone?), rock music and comfort food of burgers and sandwiches. If it’s sunny, get a table by the open windows overlooking the busy street. Emek Pasaj, 56E/1 Istiklal Caddesi. 0212 293 7279. $.
6- Alkazar Sinemasi.

You might find yourself visiting this cinema one evening, with Hollywood titles as well as Turkish movies, but check it out now for its façade’s wonderful stonework, in keeping with the ornate style of the street’s historic buildings. This was actually one of Beyoglu’s most important 19th century buildings, and had its days as a theatre, set up by Turkish actor Ayfer Feray 1928–1994), heart-throb of the 1950–70s. @10 min. 111 Istiklal Caddesi.

7- Cite de Pera.

This build- ing – or rather its façade – is a great reminder of the Grande Rue de Pera’s glory years. I’m not so keen on the colored glass in the renovated window, but love the ornate stone carvings above the entrance. In the 1940s, florists traded from the first-floor stores, and it was known as “Çiçek Pasaji” (Flower Passage), a name still used today. When the building collapsed in 1978 and renovated further, it was then filled with noisy meyhanes(fish restaurants). But not many people know that previously it was the Naum Theater hosting Italian operas, burned down in the great Pera fire of 1870.
Greek-Turkish banker Hristaki Zografos Efendi bought the land, and the restored building was
named Cite de Pera. These days it’s a shadow of its former self with a few bars and restaurants (better
restaurants nearby) but still worth a look inside. @10 min. 172 Istiklal Caddesi.

Aya Triada, Istanbul’s largest Greek Orthodox church. Historic Cite de Pera, now Çiçek Pasaji.
8- Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi (Armenian Church of Three Altars).

A real hidden gem behind Balik Pasaj, this church behind heavy wooden doors (usually open to the public) celebrated its 200th anniversary in May 2008. With a plain exterior and graceful interior,
the story goes that an unknown sick man prayed to be cured, promising to build a church with three altars if his prayers were answered. Take a peek inside to see the famed altars. @15 min. 24 Sahane Sokak, Balik Pasaj. Services Sun 12noon. Open daily 8am–5pm.
9- Avropa Pasaj.

I try not to be distracted by the passageway’s grubby glass ceiling, instead looking up above the shop entrances to the small black statues of angels lining what was the original exterior. This tiny arcade is the place to browse for antiques—or more precisely ephemera. The upper floor’s renovations are set to be complete in early 2009, which will give you a chance to walk upstairs for a better view of the pasaj. @15 min. Off Sahne Sok. Most stores open daily 10am–7pm.
10- Galatasaray Lisesi.

A massive landmark, its gate and pillars being my favorite Beyoglu meeting-point, this school was
established in the 15th century, when Sultan Beyazit II (1447–1513) responded to an old man’s wish to
build a school for educating ‘promising young men’ (see bullet !). Fast forward to the late 19th century
when Sultan Abdulaziz acquired the help of Napoleon III in transforming the school to the contemporary French lycée system, a huge influence on modernizing Ottoman Turkey. Since 1992, it has been part of Galatasaray University, coeducational, and entrance exams required, even at primary level. Visitors are allowed to enter the grounds (9am–5pm) or just peer through the ornate gilded gates.
@15 min. Istiklal Caddesi.
11- Gülbaba’s Tomb.

Take a 10-minute detour down Yeniçarşi Caddesi to see the little-known tomb of the man who inspired the Lisesi (see above); a humble reminder of a promise kept by Sultan Beyazit. The neighborhood is old
and a little scruffy, but the grave — the only one there—is well kept, often tended by the local children,
and with an adjacent little park. You’ll be one of the few visitors to make it here! @10 min. Gül Baba
Sokagi.
12- Misir Apartmani.

The white six-storey apartment block built in 1920 by Hovzep Aznavur, a prominent Armenian architect who also built St Stephen of the Bulgar’s (see p 29), is one of my favorite Istiklal buildings, representing the old Pera with a huge facelift. Take the lift to the top floor and walk down, popping into the small private art galleries inside (see Modern Istanbul p 28 for more details) or lunch in the stylish 360 Istanbulon the top floor (see Best Nightlife p 117). This was the winter residence of Abbas
Halim Pasha, son of an Egyptian prince (Misir means Egypt). Later converted into apartments and
office space, it was recently converted once again into modern apartments and given a new lease
of life. @30–60 min. 163 Istiklal Caddesi.
13- St Antoin di Padua.

This one is easy to miss—through a triple-arched gateway and down a set of steps. The huge neo-Gothic
Catholic church, built in 1913, replaces the original one here from 1725, its interior dominated by a
statue of Christ on the cross suspended from the ceiling, sculpted by Italian Luigi Bresciani. The exterior with leafy courtyard is delightful, with circular stained-glass windows, and flower-pots up on the entrance archway’s ledges, originally part of apartments built as a source of income for the church. The statue of Pope John XXIII, who served the Istanbul Catholic community 1935–1944, was unveiled by Pope Benedict XVI on his historic trip to Istanbul in 2006. @15 min. Istiklal Caddesi. Open daily 8am–7.30pm.
14- Santa Maria Draperis.
Like St Antoin di Padua (see above) this has an entrance hidden from view, from the days when it was forbidden for churches to have visible spires. This Franciscan church dating back to 1789 has a gorgeous bell tower, visible from the courtyard. @15 min. 215 Istiklal Cad; daily 10am–12pm and 2–6pm. Sun and Tues 2–6pm.
15- Galata Mevlevihanesi Müzesi.

Due to reopen late 2008 after major restoration, the museum housed in the 1491 tekke (lodge) built for the Mevlevi (Whirling Dervishes) contains traditional musical instruments, illuminated Qurans
and costumes. Don’t miss the complex’s serene graveyard where many of the lodge’s Sufis are buried, the tomb of Galipdede, the revered 17th-century Sufi poet, and the ornate fountain of Hasan Aga (1649). This was (and plans to continue after reopening) the venue of the Dervishes performing their famous semaceremony, a trancelike ‘whirling’ meditation which brings them close to God. Scheduled to be every Sun 5pm; phone to check. @30 min. 15 Galip Dede Caddesi, Tünel. y0212 245 4141. Open
Wed–Mon 9am–4.30pm.
Ornate entrance to newly-restored Galata Mevlevihanesi.
16- Markiz Patisserie.
Now called Robert’s Coffee (and originally Lebon Pastanesi from 1850) this was once the epitome of
bohemian Pera, cake venue of choice for the city’s elite—including young author Orhan Pamuk. The huge art nouveau tile panels by French artist J.A. Arnoux once depicted the four seasons, although only Spring and Autumn remain. 172A Istiklal Cad. 0212 252 2701. $.

You’ve seen plenty of Istanbul’s mosques,now it’s time for its world-famous Byzantine monuments. Once called Byzantium, Emperor Constantine I made the city capital of the Roman Empire in 324AD, renamed it Constantinople, and adopted Christianity. Today’s Istanbul boasts Byzantine-era churches, cisterns and squares. Starting at Edirnekapi, geographically the tour’s highest point, you can walk
between most venues and although it looks like a long list, you’ve probably visited some on previous days. START: Bus to Edirnekapi.

1- Edirnekapi (Charsius Gate).

The name of this gate, at the 6.5 km-long fifth-century city walls built by Emperor Theodosius II (408–450AD), now refers to the area of a mass transport hub, best seen when you climb the poker-straight walls. Although this is a restored area, you can edge a little west, off the main road to see part of its original structure, with Ottoman carvings over the arch. @30 min. Bus no.87 to Edirnekapi.

2- Cakiraga Cay Evi.

Restunder the leafy canopy against the city walls for a glass of Turkish tea – and try to buy karpuz watermelon (if in season) from the adjacent stall. Hoca Çakir Cad. Bus: 87 to Edirnekapi. $.

3- Tekfur Sarayi (Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus).

Closed for restoration since 2006 (completion date unknown), you can visualize the magnificence of this former Byzantine palace, built into the city walls, but now a mere shell. Since completion in the early 14th century, after the Ottoman conquest it became a brothel after the Ottoman conquest, and later a pottery workshop and a poorhouse before being abandoned in late 18th century. Pop into the crowded cooing Pigeon Market (weekends only) in the adjacent sports court for hearty trading
in birds costing up to $500. (It’s not really Byzantine, but I could tenuously trace it to the centuries-old
Middle Eastern hobby of pigeon racing.) @15–30 min. !i@ehane Cad.
Bus no.87 to Edirnekapi.

4- Kariye Müzesi (Kariye Museum, or Church of St Saviour in Chora).

This modest-look-ing 11th-century church later gained its world-class frescoes and mosaics procured by Theodore Metochites (1270–1332), writer and senior member of the Byzantine administration who died right here in 1332.
Amongst these stunning works, reflecting a new art mentality of the time, look out for his portrait in the inner narthex. Metochites took the genealogy of Christ as his starting point when commissioning mosaics covering its domes and walls. The two domes of the inner narthex hold the centerpiece—Christ, plus the Life of the Virgin series. Despite being converted to a mosque soon after the Conquest, it’s interesting to note that nothing remains from the Ottoman period. @60–90 min.
(see also Best In Three Days, p 20).
5- Fethiye Camii (Church of the Pammakaristos).

Nestled in Fener (see Neighborhood Walks p 76) 10 minutes away, this stone-and-brick façade houses a charming display of Byzantine mosaics. Like other churches of the era, it was converted into a mosque after the Fall of Constantinople in 1453, and much later a museum. Its mosaics and frescoes were only unearthed in the late 20th century, of which the startling centerpiece is the mosaic of Jesus with the prophets of the Pentateuch covering the dome of the grave chapel. @30 min. See p 77.
6- Zeyrek Camii (Monastery of the Pantocreator).

I love the cobbled walk up to Küçükpazar from the main road, now a rundown neighborhood of
wooden houses and football-playing kids but once a wealthy Byzantine area. This mosque (almost in ruins and due for restoration from late 2008) was the original church of the monastery built by Empress Eirene Komnena in 1118–1124, after which Mehmet II turned the monastery into
a medrese(religious school) and the church into a mosque. Closed outside prayer-times, ask around for the caretaker (tip appreciated) who will show you its dark high-ceilinged interior, and hopefully its ornate marble mosaic floors, now hidden by carpet. @20 min. Ibadethane Sok.Tram: Laleli, then walk.
Christ adorns the dome at Fethiye Camii.
7- Zeyrekhane.

Sip a (pricey) coffee or taste classic Turkish dishes from the restaurant’s terrace, a restored building within the monastery complex, perfect for a Byzantine tour. 10 Arkasi Sok. 0212 532 2778. Tram: Laleli then walk, or bus to Atatürk Bul. $$$.
8- Bozdogan Kemeri (Aqueduct of Valens).

You probably passed under these sturdy arches from the airport, or by bus to Edirnekapi. This 4th-century two-tiered aqueduct completed under Emperor Valens carried water from Belgrade Forest to the palace, still in use centuries later. Follow it a few meters west to the arches’ north ide to join locals drinking tea, my favorite way to appreciate this significant Byzantine feat of engineering. @20 min. Aqueduct runs parallel to Mustafa Kemalpaşa Cad.

9- Vefa Bozacisi.

Awell-trodden stone threshold indi-cates its age, locals’ favorite since 1876 and an unchanged tiled interior. If you don’t fancy drinking boza, made from fermented millet, try a fruity @ira—or a simple icecream. 104 Katip Çelebi Cad. Bus: 87 to Edirnekapi. $.
10- alenderhane Camii.
Site of a church since the 6th century, the red-hued brick church’s once-gloomy interior improved
when the Ottomans installed windows—after of course converting it to a mosque post-1453 and renam-
ing it. Still functioning today, I love its gray-and-pink hued marble walls, with shafts of light creeping through high windows. Don’t miss fragments of frescos in the entrance hall above the doorway—most of the frescos discovered during its 1966 restoration are now in the Archaeological Museum (see p 14). @20 min. 16
Mart Şehitleri Cad. Open dawn-dusk. Tram: Üniversite.

11- Yerebatan Sarniçi (Basilica Cistern).

The Byzantines used their engineering know-how to bring water to the city (see Best In Two Days, p16), despite droughts and sieges. Founded in 532AD by Emperor Justinian, this vast underground cistern held around 100,000 tones of water, with 336 nine-metre-high columns holding up the roof, thought to be built by 7,000 slaves.
Once traversed by rowing boat, now by walkway for visitors, this is one of countless cisterns lying under the city. Opposite the entrance, the Windows galore at Kalenderhane Camii, thanks to the Ottomans.

Million Stoneis what remains of a monumental landmark where distances from Byzantine’s capital to
other importance cities were once written. You’re now standing on Divan Yolu, one of the most impor-
tant streets of the empire, leading from Constantinople to Rome. @40 min. See p 16 for details.

12- At Meydani (Hippodrome).

Ignore the camera-wielding tourists and imagine thousands of fans cheering on chariot racing in one of the Empire’s largest hippodromes—also past venue of public executions. (See Neighborhood Walks, p74.) Built in the 3rd century and enlarged by Constantine I, this was the past venue where 30,000 were killed during the 532 AD Nika Riots between rival supporters of the Blue and Green chariot teams, with deep political roots. No horses or executions here today, just three ancient monuments, of which the Egyptian Obelisk was later adorned with scenes of Theodosius I (346–95AD) at the Hippodrome’s royal box. @30 min. At Meydani. Tram: Sultanahmet.
13- Haghia Sophia.
Rebuilt by Emperor Justinian in 537AD, this hulking, almost squat exterior contrasts with its ornate
interior (see Best in One Day, p 7).
This was a basic rule of Byzantine architecture, that the exterior should be modest, saving your
attention to the inside. When you’ve savored the religious mosaics from the upper balcony, wander outside to find the Byzantine frieze of sheep, the remains of the earlier 5th-century Haghia Sophia. @90 mins. See p 7, bullet 1.
14- Mosaic Museum.

Nestled five minutes away behind Arasta Bazaar, the stone exterior is all that remains of Emperor Justinian’s (487–565AD) vast 6th-century Byzantine Great Palace, in ruins since 1206.
The mosaics you see today from the walkways—huntsmen spearing gazelles, tussling elephants and
lions—is a fraction of the original, unearthed during excavations in 1912, and some of the last remaining Byzantine non-religious mosaics.
Don’t miss the display inside of how these incredible mosaics were discovered and restored. @40 min.
Arasta Çar@isi,Torun Sok. 0212 518 1205. Tues–Sun 9am–4pm; 5 TL.
Tram: Sultanahmet.
15- Bukoleon Sarayi (Bucoleon Palace).

Originally the living quarters of the Byzantine emperors’ Great Palace, this is the last remaining wall (and, given its propensity to be inhabited by tramps, not advisable to visit after dark). Built on the waterfront by Emperor Theophilos in 842AD, the western façade was demolished in 1873 when the railway line to Sirkeci was built. @10 min. Kennedy Cad. Train: Kumpaki.
What remains of the great Bukoleon Sarayi.

1- santralistanbul.

As well as the fabulous art exhibitions at this refurbished Ottoman power station (see Modern Istanbul,p 32; bullet 7), the Museum of Energyhas a Play Zone with machines, buttons, and games galore designed for ages 4–14 (although adults like me will love it too). Create magnetic sculptures and even your own electricity, then take a closer look at huge turbine generators dating back to 1911.
Kids can mess around in the Switch Gear Room, where the original connecting cables distributed electricity to the whole city; it’s not interactive – so no danger of them fusing Istanbul. @1 hr. Eski Silahtarage Elektrik Santrali, Silahtaraga Mahallesi,Kazim Karabekir Cad 1, Eyüp. 0212 444 0428. www.santralistanbul.org. Admission free. Tues–Sun 10am– 8pm. Free shuttle from Atatürk Kültür
Merkez (Taksim); boat from Eminönü to Eyüp; bus 44B or 47 from Eminönü.
2- Miniatürk.

If you want to see Istanbul’s best landmarks close up, this outdoor museum is the place where a few strides (even for little people) take you from Galata Tower to the Blue Mosque via Dolmabahçe
Palace. As well as 45 models of Istanbul’s best-loved monuments plus 15 from the old Ottoman Empire and the Egyptian pyramids, the toy train is ideal for small passengers to weave their way around the park. An indoor exhibition recreates the World War II battlefields of the Dardanelles, complete with machine-gun fire and bombs, while the playground, giant Much of everyday Istanbul life is a kid’s paradise, from watching fishermen on Galata Bridge to its world-class muse- ums. The locals adore kids, so don’t be surprised when grown men coo over your baby. The list below is too much in one day, so pick and choose from these highlights to suit your children’s ages and interests. All museums have family-friendly cafés and many of these places can be reached by boat, especially the Haliç (Golden Horn) Ferry Line, an attraction in itself. START: Shuttle bus from Atatürk Kültür Merkez, Taksim Square. chess set and lovely café make it a great family trip. @1–2 hrs. Imrahor Cad, Borsa Duragi Mevkii, Sütlüce. 0212 222 2882. www.miniaturk.com.tr. Admission 10 YTL. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm; Sat and Sun 9am–9pm.
Boat from Eminönü or Eyüp to Sütlüce; bus 47 from Eminönü or 54HT from Taksim.
3- Rahmi Koç Museum.
Kids can jump aboard a Douglas DC-3 (1942) plane, gaze at huge anchors and explore a plethora of
cars ranging from Formula 1 and 1908 Model T Ford to a 1961 German Amphicar. Timed tickets can be
bought to enter the submarine. This private collection of Turkey’s great industrialist Rahmi Koç (b 1930) also houses sawmills and lathes grinding into action when you enter the workshop. I love pressing the buttons on the ‘How Does it Work?’ exhibits to watch the mechanism in a cutaway car or domestic washing machine. At weekends, ride the diesel train along the Golden Horn and the traditional Carousel. @90 min. 27 Haskoy Cad, Haskoy. 0212 369 6600.www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Admission 10 TL adults; 5 TL students/children. Submarine 4.5 TL, 3 TL. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat and Sun 10am–7pm. Bus 54HS from Taksim.
4- Istiklal Nostajic Tram.
This one-carriage red tram trundles along Istiklal Caddesi between Taksim and Tünel, a favorite with visitors, and locals avoiding the mass of pedestrians. Originally running along the 19th-century Grande Rue de Pera (Istiklal’s previous name) until taken out of service in 1961, it was restored and re-introduced in 1990. Grab a window seat for a street-level view for the 1.6km journey, taking about 10 minutes, with a stop halfway at Galatasaray Lisesi (see Neighborhood WalksIstiklal Nostajic Tram running down Istiklal Caddesi.

p 52). Kids will love the driver’s constant clanging of the original bell to shoo the pedestrians out of the way. Use your akbil (transport token; see Savvy Travelerp 164) or pay the driver. @10 min. Trams run from Atatürk Monument (Taksim Meydanı) to Tunel Meydani, every 5–8 mins; 9am–11pm. Ticket 1 TL.
recreating the battle scene and, from the same era, the unbelievably thick chains placed at the entrance
of the Golden Horn. Kids will love the dazzling Ottoman gold-plated armor and Yemeni daggers. People gather for the 3pm Mehter performance, the uniformed Janissary band (out-door in summer, indoor in winter) of the pompous band that led the army into battle (see box section below).
Harbiye. y0212 233 2720. @90 min. (inc Mehter). Admission 3 TL adults; 1 TL child; extra for camera,
video. Wed–Sun 9am–4.30pm;
Mehter band 3–4pm. Metro: Harbiye.
5- Dondurma stalls.

You can’t miss the traditional dondurma(icecream) stalls dotted along Istiklal— originally from the city of Kahramanmaraş, and thicker, stickier and stretchier than normal ice cream, thanks to extra ingredients like mastic and sahlep(starch from orchids).
Sellers are usually clad in traditional Ottoman costume garb and entertain all when churning it out into the cup or cone. Istiklal Cad. $.
6- Askeri Müzesi (Military Museum).

The army has a major role in Istanbul’s history—modern Turkey’s founder Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (see History, p 170) was previously an army general—and this well laid-out museum celebrates military history from Ottoman to present day. Highlights include the Hall of the Conquest of Istanbul,
7- Kale Çay Bahçesi.

Recharge before exploring Rumeli Hisari Müzesi at this popular tea-garden at the fortress’s base for sloppy Turkish omelets, walnut cake and toasted sandwiches, with of course glasses of tea and plenty of soft drinks. 38 Yahya Kemal Cad. 0212 257 5578. $.
Thurs–Tues 9am–4.30pm. Bus: 25 or 40E from Besiktas; 559C from Taksim then 10-min walk.

8- Rumeli Hisari Müzesi (Fortress of Europe).

This 30,000m2landmark fortress overlooking the Bosphorus has old walls and watchtowers, fabulous for scrambling around especially as it’s surprisingly quiet (it also closes oddly early, even in summer.) Built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 in only four months (don’t we all wish for builders like that?) it lies opposite his Anadolu Hisari (Fortress of Asia) on the narrowest part of the water, as the Sultan
planned for his siege of Constantinople in 1453. Its three sturdy towers, 12-sided flag tower, and rows of canons dating back to Süleyman the Magnificent make great exploring, though hold on to little ones if you’re climbing rough steps up the walls.
Look out for the amphitheatre, venue of occasional concerts in summer, and take in the views of the huge cemetery from Zaghanos Pa@a Kulesi, the southwestern tower. @90 min.
Yahya Kemal Cad, Sariyer. 0212 263 5305. Admission 2 TL.
The amphitheater at Rumeli Hisari still holds performances today.

9- Galata Köprüsü (Bridge).
One of Istanbul’s great landmarks (see Best in One Dayp 10), this makes a lovely end to the day. From
the bridge, watch the row of fishermen cast lines, peering optimistically into murky waters below.
Children can check out their pots of bait (usually maggots) and their catch of tiny fish. Breathtaking views take in ferries cruising up the Haliç (Golden Horn), the mêlée of people crowding into Eminönü’s markets, and spot-lit mosques at night. This is one of my favorite places to hear the cacophony of sounds of azan (call to prayer) from a myriad mosques. Bridge joining Eminönü to Karaköy. Any bus to Eminönü; tram: Eminönü or Karaköy.

10- Eminönü fishing boats.
Bobbing on Eminönü’s waterfront are several huge ornamental fishing boats, offering fresh fish cooked by elaborately dressed attendants. Feast on cheap balik ekmek(fresh fish in bread) with salad, or a corn-on-the-cob with a cool drink. This is an unbeatable people-watching spot for all ages. Eminönü pier, west of Galata Bridge. $.
Hub of fishing on Galata Bridge.

The world’s oldest military band, the Mehter accompanied the Ottoman armyinto battle to instill confidence and, ideally, strike terror into the enemy. These days, various bands perform marches and
recitals in full Ottoman costume at the Azkeri Müzesi (daily), weekly in Eyüp(see p 58) and Dolmabahçe Palace(see p 20) plus other special events, still using traditional Turkish instruments including zurna(reed instrument) and davul (large drum). Its stirring style and beat are thought to have influenced European classical composers like Mozart, Beethoven and Haydn—although they presumably didn’t have to evoke the terror of their Ottoman counterparts. Mehter – Band of the Ottoman Army

1- 500. Yil Vakfi Türk Musevileri Müzesi (Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews, or Jewish Museum of Turkey).

Snuck up a small alleyway in Karaköy (look out for the ‘museum’ sign), this was once the Zulfaris Synagogue, founded in 1671 and a museum since 2001, hardly visible from the outside. Its excellent
information boards and exhibits reveal how the Sephardic Jews – those originating from Spain and Portugal – considered the Ottomans as saviors in 1326 when they freed them from Byzantine oppression in Bursa, even more so when forced to flee Spain during the Spanish Inquisition in 1492 and welcomed by Beyazid II (1448–1512). More recently, Atatürk invited many Jewish scientists from
Nazi Germany, and several Turkish diplomats succeeded in saving Turkish Jews during the Holocaust. As well as religious artifacts like Torah scrolls and silver goblets that were used during services, don’t miss the exhibits from Istanbul’s first Ottoman printing house, and Turkey’s first printed book in 1493. The balcony – originally the ladies’ gallery – has temporary exhibitions, and the ethnography section draws parallels with Muslim culture, especially circumcision, marriage and death.
Outside, its first floor shop has some related books in English.
@90 min. Selanik Pasaji, Percemli Sokak, Karaköy Meydani. 0212 292 6333. www.muze500.com
Donations requested. Mon–Thurs 10am–4pm; Fri and Sun 10am–2pm; Closed Sat and Jewish hols. Tram or tunnel: Karaköy.
2- Kamondo Merdivenleri(Camondo Staircase).

This short, curvaceous double staircase (see also Neighborhood Walks p 63) leading up from Voyvoda
Caddesi, the historic banking hub, was built by Avram Camondo (sometimes spelt Kamondo), a leading merchant in the Jewish Persecuted Jews began coming to Istanbul 500 years ago, ever since welcomed by the Ottoman Empire after fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, beginning in the mid-16th century. Pockets of Jewish heritage dot the city, but we start off in Galata and Karaköy (named after the Karaite Jewish sect that once lived there), then move on to Balat, sampling good kosher cuisine en route. Very little remains of the once-flourishing community in these areas, most having moved out to the wealthier suburbs. I love traveling between the two areas by boat – at the time of writing, ferries leave Eminönü for Balat at 50 minutes past every hour. Recent attacks on synagogues and increasing Islamic extremism have made security much tighter (see below). Tram or tunnel to Karaköy. ommunity and head of the prosperous family. The first foreigner given the right to have having real estate in the Ottoman Empire, he built this still much-used staircase in the 19th century as a mark of his gratitude, and more importantly to ease the uphill journey to the family’s home (see below) when baby Moise was born in 1860. @10 min.
From Voyvoda Cad. Tram or tunnel: Karaköy.
3- Galata Residence.

Now a lovely hotel, this was the Camondo’s family home in the thick of things, Galata, once the hub of the Ladino-(Judaeo-Spanish) speaking Jewish community and close to numerous synagogues. The wooden house, originally known as Felek Han, was converted into apartments in 1844 by Gabriel Tedeschie, who also built Ashkenazi Synagogue (see bullet k), and has seen many transformations including a school for Alyans Israelit Universel, a trade center, and finally a hotel. @10 min.
2 Felek Sokak, off Bankalar Caddesi, Galata. y0212 292 4841. www.galataresidence.com. Tram or tunnel: Karaköy.

4- Schneidertempel Art Gallery.

Built in 1894 as one of the city’s few Ashkenazi synagogues, for Jews originating mainly from Eastern
Europe, this well-restored building holds temporary exhibitions relating to Jewish life and culture. Its most striking feature is the simple Star of David stained-glass window, above the area which used to be the ark, the ornamental ‘closet’ that contains the Torah scrolls. (Opening hours can be erratic.) @30 min.
Felek Sokak,Galata. Mon–Thurs 10.30am–-5pm; Fri 10.30am–3pm in winter, 5pm in summer; Sun
12–6pm. Closed Jewish hols. Tram or tunnel: Karaköy.

5- Ashkenazi Synagogue.
Turkey’s only Ashkenazi Synagogue, this was established by tradesmen over 200 years ago for Jews that migrated from Macedonia and Poland. Far from being a flourishing community, its members were poor tailors, many women making a living as prostitutes at the (then) numerous local brothels. These days its congregants trace roots from Baghdad, and Turkish cities Adana, Bursa and Konya. The black wooden ark, holding the Torah scrolls brought by Jews on their way to Israel, is carved with letters of the Hebrew alphabet, and was brought from Kiev. The skyblue painted domed ceiling makes a
striking addition. From here, walk down to Karaköy and either take the tram or walk over Galata Bridge to Eminönü. @30 min. 37 Yuksekkaldirim Cad. By appointment only; Donations welcome. Tram or Tunnel Karaköy; tunnel Tünel.
Carved wooden ark at Ashkenazi Synagogue, a gift from Kiev Jews.

With the high security surrounding all synagogues in Istanbul, increased since the bombing of Neve Shalom synagogue in 2003, forward planning for any visit is essential, even if you simply want to attend a service. Send an email via www.musevicemaati.comat least three working days before your visit, and you will be sent a form to fill in names of all visitors, plus scanned passport page and exact dates of your visit. Don’t forget to bring your passport, even if attending a service.

Practical Matters

Fleeing their Spanish-Portuguese homeland during the Spanish Inquisition, when Jews were forced to convert to Christianity or be killed, the Camondo family soon became renowned as Istanbul’s best-known family of bankers, financiers and philanthropists. One of their most famous purchases was Camondo Han, a huge building on the Golden Horn, now headquarters of the Turkish Navy, whichhoused studios of many prominent Turkish artists and a meeting place for luminaries of the world of literature and philosophy. Avram,the patriarch, moved to Paris in his 80s, and when he died in 1873 his body was flown back to Istanbul for a state funeral and burial at his tomb in Hasköy.

6- Levi.

One of Istanbul’s oldest kosher (adhering to Jewish dietary laws) restaurants, tucked away from busy Eminönü, enjoy a hearty lunch of traditional Sephardic dishes, mainly meaty stews. Open lunchtimes only. Çavuşbaşi Han 23/10, Tahmis Kalçin Sokak, Eminönü. y0212 512 1196. $.

7- Çifit Çarşisi.

This unassuming daily street-market, covering Lavanta and Leblebiciler Sokaks, is typical of a neighborhood like Balat. It was actually known as Çifit (the slightly derogatory Ottoman name for Jews) Çar@isi, although only Balat locals would know it by that name. Only about 20 of the original Jewish traders still remain today. When you turn down Köpelbasi Caddesi, look up at #82A to see the galleon on the wall above the door, symbol of the Sephardic Jews. This was the home of shopkeeper Leon Burudo, one of the oldest Jewish traders, who died in 2006. @20 min. Ferry: Balat; or bus 35D from Eminönü.
8- Ahrida Synagogue.

The oldest Sephardic synagogue in Turkey, established in 1430 by Macedonians, still attracts about
100 congregants every Saturday.
The exquisite chandelier suspended from the domed central ceiling was restored in 1991, although its most eye-catching piece is the Bimah, the central raised platform from where the reading of the Torah takes place: Some say it’s shaped like a galleon, the symbol of the Sephardic Jews who sailed here during the Spanish Inquisition. Others think it is based on the shape of Noah’s Ark, representing
freedom. In the courtyard, with a fabulous tree with twisted trunk, is a plaque naming all the Jewish benefactors who gave financial support. For essential information on visiting, please see ‘Practical Matters’ info box p 37. 9 Kurkcucesme Sokak, Balat.
www.musevicemaati.com. By appointment only, Mon–Fri 9.30am–noon. Ferry: Balat; or bus 35D.

9- Çavuş Hamam.

Although you may only be able to take a quick peak inside, this hamam is more interesting for its history than for its architecture – even if it was built by Sinan (see Art & Architecture Highlights p 173). When Jews began to live in Balat from the mid-15th century, they requested of Süleyman the Magnificent to have one built specially for them, as it would also have been used as a mikvah, for women’s monthly ritual bathing.
Permission was granted, and Mimar Sinan built two special hamams, this one (the only remaining one) and one in Fener. @10 min.
Ahrida Synagogue’s exterior, hidden away in Fener.

10- Carne.

Istanbul’s top kosher restaurant moved venue but retained its good reputation for great Sephardic dishes like spinach meatballs in tomato sauce.
Beautifully presented. Halaskargazi Caddesi, Uzay Apt 53, Harbiye. 0212 241 8585.$$.

Leave the Ottoman era behind to head to today. Like most visitors you’ll be drawn to the history, but don’t ignore the modern face of Istanbul, with new galleries showcasing local artists, cutting-edge architecture, and a dynamic fashion scene. All the galleries below have opened since 2004, which makes you realize the lack of contemporary arts spaces before that—surprising for a city with such a cultural hub. It’s certainly been one of the most exciting developments to Istanbul, giving it a certain cachet.
START: Tram: Tophane.

1- Istanbul Modern.
When this contemporary art museum opened in 2004 (see p 17) in a converted customs warehouse, it was a much-needed fillip to Istanbul’s art scene. The permanent exhibition ‘Modern Experiences’ highlights prominent 19th-century Turkish painters. Look out for Ihsan Cemal Karaburçak (1897–1970), influenced by Cezanne, Gaugin and Matisse from his trips to Paris, and the huge work
by Nejad Melih Devrim (1923–1995), one of Turkey’s earliest abstract painters. It’s also interesting to see how the first professional artists operated under the new Turkish Republic from 1923, having been trained and financed under the Ottomans, like Osman Hamdi Bey, famed for his Orientalist style. From the cracked glass walls lined with chains, descend to the basement, where the false ceiling comprising suspended books is dramatic. I love the temporary photographic exhibitions in the basement (although the images of Istanbul through the decades from the Magnum group is hard to beat). The shop has an eclectic collection of prints, mugs, and even kits to paint reproductions of paintings on T-shirts.
There’s also a kids section on the first floor with soft play materials. @90 min.(see p 17 for details).

2- Istanbul Culinary Institute.

This informal student-run restaurant presents Ottoman cuisine with a contemporary twist. Breakfasts are enhanced by superb homemade bread, with a daily-changing lunch menu, perhaps including pan-
fried zucchini pancakes. Good value; daytime only. 59 Me@rutiyet Cad. y0212 251 2525. $$.

3- Pera Müzesi (museum).
Opened in 2005 in a restored late 19th-century Pera building, this museum houses the private collec-
tion of the Suna and Inan Kiraç Foundation.In addition to the permanent collections of all things ceramic, Orientalist and Ottoman, head to the top three floors for changing exhibitions. Often these are by prestigious European painters, for example I recently enjoyed the Joan Miró exhibition, with two floors (albeit small) of the Spaniard’s paintings and sculptures, beautifully lit, laid-out and labeled. There may also be a floor dedicated to contemporary Turkish artists and experimental art.
While you’re there, don’t miss Osman Hamdi Bey’s serene Tortoise Trainer(1906) Turkey’s most valuable painting at $3.5m, depicting himself as a dervish ‘training’ the tortoises with music. @1 hr.
65 Me@rutiyet Caddesi, Tepeba@i. 0212 334 9900. www.pm.org.tr.
Admission 7 TL; concession 3 TL.
Tues–Sat 10am–7pm; Sun 12–6pm.
Tram: Tünel or Taksim.

4- Misir Apartmani.

When the top floor of this early 20th-century building opened 360 Istanbul (seeBest Nightlife p 123) in 2004, the rooftop bar, restaurant and fashionistas gathering par excellence, it paved the way for a series of contemporary art galleries. Get the lift to the top, then work your way down and keep your eyes open for even more opening up. Most of the work exhibited is for sale. The private Galeri Nev(5/F; 0212 252 1525; www.galerinevistanbul.com) represents 13 Turkish artists, including Nazif Topçuoglu’s photographs and large installations by Canan Tolon. Exhibitions, changing every few months, usually show a couple of pieces from each, including sculptures. With two changing exhibitions by contemporary European artists or photographers, Galerist. (4/F; 0212 244 8230; www.galerist.com.tr) has brochures in English. Sneak onto the balcony for wonderful views over busy Istiklal Caddesi. Opened in May 2007, Casa Dell’Art (3/F; 0212 251 1214; www.casadell artgallery.com)
represents 15 young established Turkish artists, hoping to promote them overseas. Each month sees a
solo exhibition of two, perhaps Ergin Inan’s mixed media, or Mustafa Sekban’s realistic Istanbul scenes. One of the building’s oldest galleries, Fototrek Fotograf Merkezi (1/F; 0212 251 9014; www.foto
trek.com) houses photographic exhibitions. Usually contemporary Turkish and European photographers, you might catch the occasional exhibition from members of the Magnum photojournalist
agency. @1 hr. 163 Istiklal Cad.

5- Sanat Galerisi.

Here’s a chance to get an idea of future plans to ‘smarten up’ in time for 2010, when Istanbul will be European City of Culture. In a Belediye (council) gallery, display boards and photographs showcase proposed The Pera Museum.

designs to regenerate Tarliba@i, a downtrodden area of Beyoglu which still makes made middle-class
Istanbullus shudder. Photographs of ‘before’ (the ‘narrow alleys and ramshackle houses’) contrast
sharply with computer-generated pastel-hued apartments, where a businessman talking on his mobile
phone is supposed to illustrate that in ‘new Tarlibasi’, people can talk on mobiles without the fear
of being mugged. It begs the question – what will happen to the original residents? @20 min.
217 Istiklal Caddesi. Admission free. Open daily 9am–4.30pm.
Tram: Tünel.
6Atatürk Kültür Merkezi
(AKM, or Atatürk Cultural Centre).

While awaiting your shuttle bus to santralistanbul(see bullet 7), take a look at the iconic cultural center in Taksim Meydani (see Istiklal Neighborhood Walks, p 52). Hardly contemporary any more, this was considered cuttingedge architecture when converted from the 1930s opera house in 1969 by Hayati Tabanlioglu, then renamedstanbul Cultural Palace. It burnt down during a performance just one year later, and reopened in 1978 as the AKM. Some love the grey steel box-like exterior, others hate it, but
with the plethora of music, dance and theatre performances, maybe its external appearance doesn’t
really matter. (Due to reopen after renovations in early 2009.) @10 min. See p 132 for details.

7- santralistanbul.
One of my favorite places in Istanbul, period. This astounding new art space, opened in September 2007, transformed the Silahtaraga Power Plant, which provided electricity to the city from 1911 to 1983. Many of the original structures had to be knocked down but were rebuilt with the same dimensions, giving amazing scope and scale for large-scale art, sculptures and installations. The themed exhibition
changes a couple of times a year, mainly of Turkish contemporary artists. Few people, even locals,
have even heard of this ambitious place, but I’ve been telling everyone I know. Wonderful! @90 min.
See p 42 for details.
Lunch inside the restored power station at ottosantral. Some of the original machinery on show
at santralistanbul.

8- ottosantral.

In the grounds of the gallery, this is rather like an industrial warehouse turned funky, with exposed pipes and menu of fresh salads, Thai chicken and original pizzas. Creative décor by day, buzzing DJ-bar by night. 0212 427 1889. $$.
9- Kanyon.

Yes it’s a shopping mall, but even if you have no intention of trailing around its up-market stores laced with designer brands (see p 96), take time to admire this wonderful piece of architecture. A metro journey from Taksim Meydani, the mall was designed by the Jerde Partnership (designers of several Las Vegas hotels) and opened in early 2006, its mix of residential, office, retail and entertainment has certainly been a big hit amongst Istanbullus, who flock to the softly curvaceous mall. Its multiplex movie halls and restaurants for a day out. With clever use of well-designed courtyard and terraces, visitors are not exposed to the elements (sun or rain) yet it never seems enclosed. Creative lighting at
night brings it alive. @30–60 mins.
185 Büyükdere Caddesi, Levent.
0212 353 5300. www.kanyon.com.tr. Most stores 10am–9pm;
restaurants later. Metro: Levent.

10- Büyükdere Caddesi, Levent.

If you emerge from
Kanyon at night, the sight looks more like a New York or Hong Kong scene than Istanbul. Blue and white neon-lit skyscrapers show off the city’s financial and business hub, the international banking headquarters growing vertically year by year. By 2010, there are likely to be another two buildings added, with 81 and 101 floors respectively.
When I see the lights cast on the birds flying above, I can’t help but contrast the scene with the spot-lit
Yeni Camii (see p 71),which seems to summarize today’s Istanbul. @20 min