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Istanbul Lodging A to Z

Ansen 130 TEPEBAŞI
Built in a century-old building in a great neighborhood, chic Zen rooms with kitchenette, sofa and writing desk make Ansen great value. Rooms are spacious, each with huge plasma TV, Wi-Fi, and power shower, all in contemporary, minimalist style. A good central choice for business travelers. Breakfast is not available, but plenty of cafes nearby. 70 Meşrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 8808. 10 units. Doubles 200–500 exc b/fast. AE, MC, V. All buses from Taksim.

Far from sightseeing and nightlife, this is one for asecluded romantic break. Perched on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, all rooms have stunning sea views (some with private balcony) and an uncluttered feel with wooden floors, white furnishings and contemporary art. The terrace is, of course, to die for; good modern European dining. Ahmet Rasim Pasha Mansion, 27 Çubuklu Cad. 0216 413 9300. 16 units. Doubles 280–700. AE, MC, V. Tram: Beyazit.
Ayasofya Konaklari SULTANAHMET

Looking decades old, these nine wooden houses are a recent clever rebuilding project. The cobbled pedestrian street (see p 73) behind Haghia Sophia houses 64 rooms with tasteful Ottoman-style décor, including small Turkish bath in the Pasha Suite. Most rooms are without TV. The street-side rooms have lovely views, and breakfast is served on one of three terraces.
Sogukçeşme Sokagi. 0212 513 3660. 64 units. Doubles 150–200. MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Büyük Londra Otel TEPEBAŞI
The bar and entrance ooze faded decadence, especially the chandeliers and Ottoman nick-nacks. Guest rooms aren’t as glamorous—ensure you get a renovated room—but they are ideal for Beyoglu’s nightlife and shopping. Over 100 years old, its kudos heightened when featured in two recent Turkish films. Meşrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 0670. 54 units. Doubles �50–150. AE, MC, V. Bus: Tepebaşi.

Çiragan Palace Kempinski

Splash out in this former Ottoman palace—worth paying extra for a Bosphorus-view suite in the old
wing Top notch (and top dollar), outstanding features include the outdoor ‘infinity’ pool, heated in winter, and the excellent Tugra restaurant. Lottery winners could try the lavish multi-roomed Grand Sultan Suite (35,000). 32 Çiragan Cad. 0212 326 4646. 314 units. Doubles from 360. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: Beşiktaş to Ortaköy.
Dersaadet SULTANAHMET This family-run restored Ottoman house in a quiet street has well-kept rooms and great service. Some have bathtub and Bosphorus views, all have flat-screen TVs and wooden floors; the penthouse suite boasts 180°views and Jacuzzi. Breakfast is served on the flowerfilled roof terrace.5 Kapiagasi Sok, off Kucukayasofya Cad. 0212 458 0760. 17 units. Doubles 115–190. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahment.
Eklektik Guest House GALATA

Hidden away down a Galata backstreet, this charming gayfriendly guesthouse has seven rooms in a converted Ottoman house, each with unique style. Choose from contemporary clean lines in the Black
Room, marble shower in the Sultan’s Room, or circular bed in the Red Room—pure camp. Guests enjoy breakfast around a communal table. Kadribey Çikmasi, off Serdar-I Ekrem Cad. 0212 243 7446. Doubles 95–115. AE, MC, V. Tunnel: Tünel.

Stylishly converted from three adjacent townhouses, the hotel has a vast selection of rooms and prices, from standard double to duplex with two bedrooms and kitchen. Cleverly using the original wood and stone, history is retained but all mod cons are included. The tiny garden is a peaceful hideaway for breakfast or evening drinks next to an old hamam. Akbiyik Cad. 0212 518 2504. 25 units. Doubles 110–150 AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.

Erboy Hotel SIRKECI

Great value and hospitality at this centrally located three-star hotel. Simple, bright rooms have TV and AC, with a large lobby and free Wi-Fi in the communal areas, plus a meeting room. Wonderful Bosphorus views from the roof terrace. 32 Ebussuud Cad. 0212 513 3750. 85 units. Doubles �64. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sirkeci.
Four Seasons Hotel SULTANAHMET

An Istanbul longstanding favorite this is Sultanahmet’s most luxurious hotel, with worldclass service. Converted from the neoclassic Sultanahmet Prison in 1986 with distinctive ochre watchtower (and prisoners’ graffiti in the basement), its high-ceilinged rooms are spacious and luxurious; home to
Seasons restaurant (see p 114). Tevkifhane Sok. 0212 638 8200. 65
units. Doubles 350–500. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Four Seasons Hotel – Istanbul at the Bosphorus BEŞIKTAŞ

Making a big impact since opening in May 2008, Istanbul’s second Four Seasons is in a refurbished 19th-century Ottoman palace with a contemporary feel. Mahogany furnishings and hand-painted motifs on the ceilings, modern facilities include huge plasma TVs, DVD players, luxury spa—including indoor and outdoor pools—business center and restaurants. Çiragan Cad. 0212 381 4000. 166 units. Doubles 350–500. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: Beşiktaş.
Galata Residence GALATA

Refurbished from the Camondo family house (see p 37), these apartments are good value, even the small ones with simple kitchens. Large apartments have two bedrooms plus living room, a good option for families, although it’s off a steep road. Most of the original wooden furnishings remain, with TV and in-room internet enhancing the comfort. Watch out for pricey items in the refrigerators! 2 Felek Sok, off Midilli Sok. 0212 292 4841. www. 21 units. Doubles 75–120. AE, MC, V. Tunnel: Tünel.

A friendly little guesthouse in a quiet street, no-frills rooms mean dark, wooden floorboards with simple furniture, with fantastic terrace views of the Marmara Sea for your buffet breakfast. For a little extra, some large rooms have a sea view. Free Wi-Fi throughout, but no TV in rooms. (20% discount for online booking.) 3 Adliye Sok, off Akbiyik Cad. 0212 516 4869. 10 units. Doubles �60–80. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Hotel Daphnis FENER

The four adjoining traditional wooden houses, painstakingly restored by its new owner in 1999, have dark-wood floors, plain furnishings and original pale-blue frescos. Some rooms have quaint balconies, although bathrooms are tiny. Fener’s only hotel gets you away from the crowds. 26 Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad. 0212 531 4858. units. Doubles 90–120. AE, MC, V. Bus or boat: Fener.
Hotel Niles BEYAZIT
Tucked away near the Grand Bazaar (see p 96), this gem of a hotel has small and simple rooms and remarkably helpful staff. Great value, especially with the buffet breakfast on the roof terrace, and there’s also a 24-hour café-bar. The spacious and brand-new suites are ideal for families. Dibekli Cami Sok, off Ordu Cad. 0212 517 3239. 29 units. Doubles 70–80. AE, MC, V. Tram: Beyazit.
Hotel Sapphire (Safir) SIRKECI

Fantastic value in a convenient part of town, away from Sultanahmet’s carpet shops but near enough the sights. Simple, light rooms have ornate touches, with flatscreen TV, minibar and small baths.
There are also family-friendly large triple rooms, a large ornate lobby, friendly and efficient staff, and free airport transfer with a two-night minimum stay. Ibnikemal Cad. 0212 520 5686. 55 units. Doubles �80. MC, V. Tram: Sirkeci.
Hotel Troya TEPEBAŞI

Basic yet good value rooms with en suites at this handy location, close to Istiklal Caddesi but relatively quiet. Rooms and reception have had a recent makeover, so it’s in good—albeit plain—condition. 45 Meşrutiyet Cad. y0212 251 8206. 84 units. Double 50–65. AE,
MC, V. Bus: Tepebaşi.
Lush Hip Hotel CIHANGIR
Opened in 2006, the chic décor in this converted apartment block puts it firmly in the HIP hotel category. Close to Taksim Square (rooms overlooking the street are noisy), rooms come in varying sizes and are uncluttered and light, with natural tones and prints of Beyoglu scenes adorning the walls. Bathrooms have powerful showers. Breakfast is in the elegant 24-hour brasserie, with Wi-Fi throughout and a new spa. 12 Siraselviler Cad. 0212 243 9595. 35 units.
Doubles 130–350. AE, MC, V. Bus: Taksim.
Mavi Ev (Blue House) SULTANAHMET

This restored Ottoman house opposite the Blue Mosque (see p 15; bring earplugs for the dawn call to prayer) is charming, with small, plain rooms and tiny bathrooms, with traditional touches such as brass double beds and wooden floorboards. Ask for a room with views, at no extra cost. 14 Dalbasti Sok. 0212 638 9010. 27 units. Doubles 160–220. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahment.
Mövenpick LEVENT

A good chain choice for business guests in the banking district. Contemporary rooms have extra-large desks, Wi-Fi and the Skyline Club Lounge for all executive-floor guests. The hotel also houses business and banqueting rooms, sauna, pool, and the wonderful AzzuR restaurant. 4 Buyükdere Cad. 0212 319 2929. 249 units. Doubles �190–350 (excluding breakfast). AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: 4. Levent.

Converted from an old townhouse on a traffic-free street, basic rooms have all the basics with Wi-Fi
and AC, but no TV. Standard rooms are small, with two interconnecting rooms suitable for families and a good-value larger double. Friendly staff, with a superb buffet breakfast on the terrace, including homemade yoghurt and cake. Adliye Sok, Akbiyik Cad. 0212 458 6850. 12 units. Doubles �40–55. MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Pera Tulip Hotel TEPEBAŞI

Opened in May 2008, this compact friendly hotel enjoys a great Beyoglu location. Contemporary rooms have lovely touches like bold patterned cushions and strong colors. With a small business center, meeting rooms, hamamand indoor pool, all rooms have Wi-Fi, kettle (very important!) and minibar, offering great value. Larger executive rooms are worth the extra. 103 Meşrutiyet Cad. 0212 243 8500. 84 units. Doubles 100–200. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: All buses from Taksim.
The Ortaköy waterfront location is a real highlight, best enjoyed over breakfast on the terrace. Add good business facilities, meeting rooms, and Wi-Fi throughout, plus some rooms have a Bosphorus view. At weekends, ask for a room away from the nearby nightclub if you want to sleep. Mornings and weekends see traffic congestion. 46 Çiragan Cad. 0212 310 1500. 120 units. Doubles 180–360 including breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus/boat: Ortaköy.

As guesthouses in this area go, it’s at the pricey end, but the dark wood, white walled rooms with a
tiny garden are worth the extra, perfect for a romantic trip. Breakfast is served on the flower-filled terrace. Free Wi-Fi (although no TV) and use of laptops, and obliging staff. Adliye Sok, off Akbiyik Cad. 0212 517 6623. 15 units. Doubles: �90–100. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Sirkeci Konak Hotel SIRKECI

This luxury boutique hotel has been popular since opening in 2007, with fantastic guest relations
staff. Tastefully furnished rooms have dark-wood floors, writing desk, and flat-screen TV, some with balcony, with private Jacuzzi in the triple deluxe suite. Additional touches include free afternoon tea
in the bar, plus Turkish cookery lessons. Guests have free use of small pool, hamamand the fitness center. 5 Taya Hatun Sok. 0212 528 4344. 52 units. Doubles 170–220. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sirkeci.
Suite Home Cihangir CIHANGIR

Tucked away in this residential neighborhood near Taksim, suites are in different styles and sizes, and all very contemporary. The big bonus is the huge sofas and kitchens; the larger suites have separate living rooms, while the penthouse suites offer balconies. Long-stay business travelers love
the small meeting rooms and spa. 12 Başkurt Sok. 0212 243 3101. 14 units.
Doubles 80–250. AE, MC, V. Metro/ bus: Taksim.
Suite Home Istiklal TAKSIM

Opened in 2008, this is prime location in the hub of Beyoglu. Great-value rooms in neutral colors
splashed with contemporary art have extras ranging from large living/dining areas and small kitchenette, to comfy sofas. All have large TV and Wi-Fi, desks and fridges, some with balconies. Ask for a back room if you don’t want street noise. Istiklal Cad. y0212 245 0772. 19 units. Doubles 100– 160. AE, MC, V. Bus/Metro: Taksim.

Sumahan on the Water ÇENGELOKÖY

A village on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is perfect for a romantic hideaway, in a boutique hotel renovated from an Ottoman distillery. Rooms are effortlessly elegant and minimalist in light woods, each with huge windows and unbeatable views. Split-level suites have their own terrace, many rooms
have Turkish baths. Kuleli Cad. 0216 422 8000. 18 units. Doubles 90–320. AE, MC, V. Boat/bus: Çengelköy.

Swissotel the Bosphorus MAÇKA

The gleaming—and huge—palatial entrance sets the tone of this Leading Hotels of the World member. Spread over two huge wings, most rooms have Bosphorus views and luxurious touches like chaise longue and huge writing desk. The huge Amrita Spa and Wellness Centre is a big attraction, Istanbul’s largest with 16 different treatment rooms, outdoor pool and sun terrace for a really decadent stay (see Restaurants p 110). Bayildim Cad. 0212 326 1100.
600 units. Doubles 250–500. AE, MC, DC, V. Metro or bus to Taksim, then taxi.


A cut above other hotels of similar price, this new hotel in a quiet side-street has large modern rooms, all with fridge, large sofa, and Jacuzzi. Grand suites (with fluffy bathrobes) have a sofa-bed and sleep three people. Flat-screen TV and large windows add to in-room comforts. Some higher floors have decent views; ask on booking. Doktor Eminpaşa Sok, Çatalçeşme Meydani. 0212 520 9130. 20 units. Doubles 05. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.
The Sofa Hotel NIŞANTAŞI
Nestled in fashion land, the Sofa deserves its HIP label. Spacious rooms and tasteful décor are the
epitome of contemporary chic, rooms come with DVD players and huge bathrooms with powerful
shower. The Omar Suite has indoor andoutdoor Jacuzzis. Huge meeting rooms, a wellness center, small pool, and fitness room caters for all needs—plus two contemporary art galleries and the Longtable restaurant-bar. 123 Teşvikiye Cad, 0212 368 1818. units. Doubles 200–800. AE, DC, MC, V. Minibus: Nişantaşi.
Triada Residence TAKSIM

Converted from a traditional Beyoglu apartment building, what it lacks in décor it compensates with
decent-sized bedrooms with small living rooms and kitchenette, with basic cooker and fridge. Close to shopping, restaurants and nightlife, this is great value for money. Meşelik Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 251 0101. 11 units. Suites 70. AE, MC, V. Bus, or tram/funicular: Taksim.
Villa Zurich CIHANGIR

This friendly and popular hotel in an charming residential neighborhood has newly renovated rooms in tasteful pale blues and creams, many with bath and Jacuzzi, with Wi-Fi throughout. Front-facing rooms have small balconies. Doga Balik restaurant (see p 109) is on the roof terrace. 36 Akarsu Yokuşu Cad. 0212 293 0604. 41. units. Doubles 110–160. AE, MC, V. Bus/metro: Taksim.

Mirrored tables and silver drapes— and that’s just the welcome area. Opened in May 2008 and converted from Dolmabahçe Palace kitchens, this sexy hotel has a wide range of rooms with a contemporary twist on classic Ottoman style, such as Marmara marble sinks, 32 flat-screen TV, Wi-Fi, Ipod docking stations, and spa. Houses the fabulous Spice Market restaurant. Süleyman Seba Cad. y0212 381 2121. units. Doubles 280–600. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus:
Witt Istanbul Suites BEŞIKTAŞ

Opened in 2008, this exquisitely designed boutique hotel has modish suites with a real ‘luxury
apartment’ feel. Each 60m2suite, designed by hip architects Autobahn, has a kitchenette and huge
bathroom, with the Witt’s elegant floral motif on walls and furnishings. Sweeping views from the top-floor’s fitness studio deter any inclination to laziness. Defterdar Yokuşu. 0212 393 7900. 15 units. Doubles 170–200. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: Beşiktaş.
Rebuilt from an existing Ottoman wooden house in 1977, this popular guesthouse has brass beds and
antique furniture, although recent price hikes have meant its value for money is debatable. The standard double room is tiny and bathroom minuscule. Still, its green wooden exterior and garden are charming, and service is good. Kabasakal Cad. 0212 517 6786. 19 units. Doubles 250–300. AE, MC, V. Tram: Sultanahmet.

Where to Stay?

Hotels cluster around Sultanahmet and Beyoglu,poles apart in ambience and amenities, so your choice depends on priorities. If you prefer views of the Blue Mosque, vicinity to historical monuments and Ottoman houses on cobbled streets, Sultanahmet is for you. Just bring earplugs for neighboring mosques’ dawn call-to-prayer, be prepared for carpet touts and never-ending souvenir shops. If good restaurants and bars are important, head to Beyoglu, where Istiklal Caddesi buzzes all night. It’s easier to travel to Sultanahmet during the day than to travel back there after a night out in Beyoglu.

How Much?
Prices listed are the rack rate for high season (roughly mid-March to late October), including breakfast and tax, often 10–20% less for winter months. Top hotels usually have good deals on their websites or through booking agencies, and can be quieter in August, with fewer business visitors. You can also try phoning the hotel directly to ask for any special rates, especially out of season. Hotels book up quickly and prices shoot up during !eker Bayram, the festival after Ramazan (see p 160) and major events—especially the Istanbul Grand Prix (see p 161).

Filed under : istanbul

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

Live Music Venues
Rock & Jazz
Babylon GALATA

One of the best music venues in the city, this started out more of a club but has found its niche as a great live music venue. Most of the acts are international, incorporating a range of music genres from nu-jazz to Latin to Balkan gypsy-techno fusion. Guest international DJs give the place a more clubby feel. 3 Şeybender Sok, off Asmalimescit. 0212 292 7368. Cover charge. Bus/metro Taksim.

Beyoglu Hayal Kahvesi BEYOGLU

A real local favorite, this venue has live bands most nights, usually Turkish rock and pop acts. The atmosphere is laid-back and grungy, rather than anything too flash, with the program posted outside. 11c Büyükparmikkapi Sok. 0212 244 2558. Metro/bus:

A relative newcomer to the music scene, this little club built in an old bakery hosts live bands, especially roots, progressive, and rock. Recent local and international sounds include Transglobal Underground, Talvin Singh, and the bluesy Nil Karaibrahimgil. A narrow balcony overlooks the stage and crowd. Look out for the monthly program in local book and music shops. 10 Kalyoncu Kulluk Cad. 0212 251 7501. Bus/metro: Taksim.
Istanbul Jazz Center ORTAKÖY

Live jazz nightly at a big classy club in Ortaköy, open during winter months only. Boasting an international line-up with stars from US, Europe and South America, theren is also a restaurant serving European food and pleasant courtyard. 10 Salhane Sok, off Ciragan Cad. 0212 327 from 40 TL. Bus/boat to Ortaköy.
Nardis Jazz Club GALATA
Live music from Turkish and international acts every night in this stonewalled cozy den draws in the jazz fans. The venue was created for local musicians and their friends by the husband-and-wife owners Önder (musician) and Zuhal Focan. Food and drink is pricey, but the small round tables and tiny balcony make it a friendly joint. 14 Galata Kulesi Sok. 0212 244 63 27. Most tickets from 25 TL. Bus/metro Taksim.

Dance, Music, and Theater
Akbank Sanat BEYOGLU
This privately sponsored cultural center has a small theater, cinema and even its own chamber orchestra (a good example of the benefits of banks sponsoring the arts). Hosting regular local dance groups, concerts, and films, and a prominent venue in the city’s arts festivals (see Savvy Travelerp 160), its monthly program is displayed in the window. 1 Zambak Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 252
3500. No credit cards. www.akbank
Atatürk Kültür Merkezi TAKSIM

This Taksim Square landmark is a multi-purpose arts and cultural center, its main concert hall seating 1,300 plus a second concert hall, chamber theater, and cinema. Home of the state ballet, theater and opera companies, its events are posted outside near the box office, and tickets are cheap. Closed for refurbishment in 2008, it is due to reopen early 2009. Taksim Meydani. Box office 0212 251 1023. Tickets approx 10–25 TL. Metro/bus: Taksim.
Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu HARBIYE

A large theatre that is home to its own symphony orchestra, with a regular and varied program including classical, jazz, and world music, plus occasional traveling ballet and modern dance companies. Closed during summer. Darülbedayi Cad, Harbiye.0212 232 9830.
Cemil Topuzlu Açikhava Tiyatrosu HARBIYE

This fantastic open-air theater is loved in summer, when it hosts performances as diverse as Balkan genius Goran Bregovic, best-known for his films scores, and jazz pianist Herbie Hancock or the St Petersburg Ballet. Most concerts are mid-July to early August. Harbiye. Box office 0212 296 2404. Metro: Osmanbey.
French Cultural Centre TAKSIM

Located inside the gorgeous grounds of the French consulate, this small theater is a venue for Istanbul’s theater and film festivals (see Savvy Travelerp 160). Look on the noticeboard outside for events. Istiklal Cad. 0212 393 8111. Bus/Metro: Taksim.
garajistanbul GALATASARAY
A new venue for contemporary performing arts, this space was created in the basement of a car park, not the likeliest venue for such a vibrant arts group. Launched by a group of local artists in early 2007, it has quickly made a name for itself, hosting performances from visiting avant garde dance and theater troupes, and producing works by in-house writers through their production company
GarajPro. 11A Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok, off Yeni Çarşi Cad. 0212 244 4499. Tickets approx 10-20 TL. Metro/ bus: Taksim.

The famous Byzantine church in the grounds of Topkapi Palace (see p 14) is rarely open—in fact your only chance is for an orchestral concert during June’s Istanbul Music Festival. These will usually be the opening and closing nights, but take any opportunity to go, even just to appreciate the venue, which means booking well in advance. Topkapi Sarayi.

Whirling Dervish Ceremony

Galatasaray Mevlevihanesi were hosting twice-monthly sema ceremonies by the Dervishes, but since it was closed for refurbishment (due to open early 2009), the performances took place most nights at
Sirkeci station, on the railway platform. While this certainly makes semaaccessible to visitors, with many outlets selling tickets, the most authentic experience is at a dervish lodge. The staff at Les Arts Turcs, a cultural organization with tours, Catch the sema ceremony of the Whirling Dervishes. courses and information, organize low-key groups to visit the Museum for the Study and Preservation of Tasavvuf (sufi) Musicon Monday nights from 9pm to experience the very spiritual ceremony, with the white-robed dervishes spinning, slowly, to attain spiritual enlightenment. It is a somber ceremony, which can last for several hours. It’s advisable to go in a group, rather than alone, as this venue does not always welcome visitors. Dress respectfully (women should wear headscarves); no photographs allowed. Highly recommended. Les Arts Turcs, 3/F 37 Incili Çavuş Sok. 0212 527 6859. Tram: Sultanahmet.

Football Clubs
The most accessible ground, a 10minute downhill walk from Taksim Square, with a stunning view of the Bosphorus and Dolmabahçe Palace (see p 20) if the match gets too boring. Beşiktaş’s last league victory was 2003, but have yet to make inroads into European trophies. Youwill find a healthy number of women and families in the crowd. Inönü Stadium. 0212 310 1000.
Tickets from 30 TL. Bus/metro: Taksim. Then walk.
Fenerbahçe F.C. KADIKÖY
Over on the Asian side in the spectacular stadium, one of Europe’s finest, theCanaries are Turkey’s

most successful club, pipped to the post for the league in 2007–2008 by Galatasaray. Their kit shops are modestly called Feneriums. Şükrü Saraçoglu Stadium, Kiziltoprak. 0216 449 5667. Tickets from 35 TL. Ferry: Kadiköy, then walk.
Galatasaray F.C. MECIDEYKÖY
Turkey’s most famous (and arguably most supported) team, ‘Cim Bom’ have won the domestic league four times since 2000, plus the UEFA Cup in 2000 over Arsenal. The infamous Ali Sami Yen stadium (remember the banner ‘Welcome to the Hell?’) will soon be discarded for a muchneeded, larger new ground, from late 2009. Ali Sami Yen Stadium, Mecidiyekoy. 0212 273 2850. Tickets from 30 TL. Metro: Mecidiyeköy.
Motor Racing
Istanbul Park TUZLA

On the Formula 1 circuit since 2005, this new 5.3km race track has 14 bends (including the famous Turn Eight) and mammoth capacity of 130,000. Dates of the F1 are subject to change —in 2009 it will be in August. Bear inthe mind that all hotels bump their prices up over the Formula 1 weekend and are booked up months in advance. Göçbeyli Köyü Yolu, Istanbul Park Circuit, 0216 677 1010. Ticket hotline 0216 556 9800.
Istanbul Golf Club LEVENT
One of the oldest clubs in Europe, going strong for over a century, this is the closest golf club to the city, north of the centre. Non-members are welcome any time at the 11-hole course (book ahead), with driving range, putting and chipping greens, although it gets busy at weekends; booking recommended. Green fees 85 YTL Mon–Fri; 135 TL Sat and Sun; 45 TL club hire. Eski Oto Sanayi
Sitesi Karşisi, Harp Akademileri içi, Büyükdere Cad. 0212 324 0609. Metro: 4. Levent.

Kemer Golf & Country Club GÖKTÜRK

Further out of the city, about 16 km northeast, this upmarket club has an 18-hole course (par 73) and driving range, plus chipping and putting green. Green fees 150 TL Mon–Fri; 200 TL Sat and Sun;
52 TL club hire. KG&CC Kampusu. 0212 239 8720.
Bab Bowling Café BEYOGLU

Visitors of all ages love this six-lane 10-pin bowling alley complete with bar, snack food, glitter ball and disco music. Pool tables and football on the big screen make this a really sporty night out. 10am–
midnight. 24 Yeşilcam Sok. 0212 251 1595. Bus/metro: Taksim.

Veliefendi BAKIRKÖY
The historic racecourse, headquarters of the Turkish Jockey Club, started night races for the first time in August 2008, making for a buzzing atmosphere. Although Atatürk promoted this noble sport, most people are more interested in the betting than any particular equine affinity! The rules at betting counters are pretty easy to understand. Races run three times a week (usually Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday) but at time of writing days and times of their 2009 season were not con-
firmed. International jockeys and horses participate in the most lucrative race meeting of the year, the Topkapi Trophy in September. Şans (which means luck) Lokanta is a beer-and-chips type of place, with Byerley Türk a better restaurant with local food. Check their website or the Turkish Daily Newsfor race schedules. Entry 2-10 TL. Türkiye Jokey Kulübü, Veliefendi Hipodromu, Bakirkoy. 0212 444 0855. to Zeytinburnu, then minibus or taxi.

Istanbul 2010

Even as early as 2008, the city was breaking into cultural party moodas it prepares for Istanbul 2010 – European Capital of Culture, awarded to three European cities every year. Even its preparation and publicity work has been entertaining, with open-air concerts, street parties, and music and drama workshops—plus extensive restoration of mosques and monuments, and areas like Tarlibaşi (see
Modern Istanbul bullet 5) getting a facelift. Before your visit, check out for listings of all events throughout 2009–2010, and get ready for open-air opera, street-theater and
free concerts—plus a whole load of visitors.

What’s On?
Listings of theater, dance, movies, concerts and sporting events can be found in the monthly English edition of Time Out Istanbul ( The English daily newspaper Turkish
Daily Newsalso has basic listings. Buy advance tickets for concerts, plays or sports events at—also at the Biletixout- let at Istiklal Kitabevi, 55A Istiklal Cad. Their website has good day-to- day listings of what’s on. Most cultural festivals (see p 160) are organized by the excellent Istanbul Kültür Sanat Vakfi (Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts); check for dates and listings. Look out for flyers appearing on the walls of Istiklal Caddesi
advertising concerts. The movie halls, especially around Istiklal Caddesi, often show recent Hollywood releases. Check they are subtitled into Turkish, rather than dubbed (‘Orijinal dilde mı?). Local Englishlanguage press will have the complete listings.
Football—a National Obsession
Between late August to early May, it’s hard to avoid the football (soccer) season, especially as Turkey’s top league, the Super Lig’s top three teams are from Istanbul; Beşiktaş, Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray.
If you’re a fan, I recommend going to a match—although given the intense passion and rivalry of supporters it’s best to avoid a local derby. If possible, experience the wonderful Inönü Stadium to see
[email protected]@—and I’m not even trying to disguise my allegiance here: They were my team of choice when living in Istanbul in 1998 and I cheered them on at home games. Many women and families attend matches, certainly more than in England, especially in my favorite Yeni Açik section of the stadium—which also has the best view of the Bosphorus and glimpses of Dolmabahçe Palace’s clock tower.

Filed under : istanbul

Istanbul Nightlife A to Z


One of Istanbul’s first venues to capitalize on its view, [email protected] Kat (literally ‘5th floor’) has a small terrace for summer nights. For winter, think deep red walls, purple drapes, beaded curtains, and chandeliers in an arty, gay-friendly bar—a favorite among Istanbul’s literati, with actressowner Yasemin Alkaya watching over the fun. Open till 3am at weekends. 5/F 7 Soganci Sok. Metro/bus: Taksim.

In busy Nevizade, this bar crams tables onto the pavement terrace to watch the crowds. Upstairs, beer-drinking locals enjoy a studenty vibe, with a friendly atmosphere and decent snack menu. 22 Nevizade Sok, Balik Pazari. y0212 245 6718. Bus/metro:Taksim.
Badehane TÜNEL

In this corner bar in a bohemian Tünel alleyway, tables on the streets fill up on summer evenings with beer-drinking young locals. Inside, it’s a goodnatured squash in winter, especially for the live gypsy clarinet music every Thursday (10pm–1.30am). 5 General Yazgan Sok. 0212 249 0550. Tunnel: Tünel.
Gizli Bahçe BEYOGLU

Not the place for a quiet drink and chat after 9pm, when the jazz-funk cranks up to deafening pitch and cheerful 20-somethings enter the fun, especially at weekends. Homely rather than chic; come for an early evening beer before dinner on Nevizade Sokak, sinking into one of the mismatched armchairs on the open terrace or tiny balcony. 15 Nevizade Sok. 0212 249 2192. Bus/metro:
James Joyce BEYOGLU

If you’re dying to watch a Manchester United match on TV, eat a full Irish breakfast, drink Guinness, and surround yourself with ‘Oirish’ paraphernalia, join young expats and locals at Istanbul’s first Irish pub. The terrace fills up on summer nights; winters pack punters inside to hear live bands every night from 10pm. 26 Balo Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 244 7970.
Metro/bus: Taksim.

In an ornate 19th century courtyard, K.V. (pronounced ‘keh-veh’) has outdoor tables amid plants and fairy lights for a touch of romance. When it gets chilly, step inside to the tiny high-ceilinged interior with huge chandeliers and pink neon lighting. Also a popular restaurant, it can be difficult getting a table at weekends, especially with live jazzon Fri and Sat nights. 10 Tünel Geçidi. 0212 251 4348. Tunnel: Tünel.

Pano Şeraphanesi

Also a lively restaurant, this traditional Greek wine house has good deals on bottles of its own wines (in a city with pricey alcohol). Perch at high tables on the first floor with a plate of cheeses or meats to accompany your drink, or sit outside in summer at pavement tables. 4 Kalyoncu Kulluk Cad.
0212 292 6664. Bus/metro to Taksim, then 10-min walk.

One of the few bars in the area, the main bar is at the end of a courtyard, getting lively in summer with a mix of tourists and locals. There are separate stone-walled partitions with rugs and stools off the courtyard. DJs play European hits every night, creating a real holiday mood. 11 Incili ÇavuşÇikmaz Sok. 0212 519 5807. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Sefahathane BEYOGLU
Tucked away down Atlas Pasaj by the cinema, this tiny bar has rock music, photos on the walls and a
laid-back boho atmosphere, refreshingly unpretentious. Come for beers, rather than anything too fancy. Atlas Pasaji, Istiklal Cad. 0212 251 2245. Bus/metro: Taksim.

In the grounds of this rebuilt Ottoman house (see p 148), the leafy garden is a peaceful escape from sightseeing and shopping. A perfect way to start your evening with a glass of wine, although not open late. 5 Kabasakal Cad. 0212 517 6785. Tram: Sultanahmet.

Café-Bars & Restaurant Bars


Inside Ada bookstore, this café now covers most of the first floor. Good for an early evening beer while listening to their excellent music from around the world, or a coffee while browsing through books. Open until about 10pm every evening.158A Istiklal Cad. 0212 251 6682. Bus/metro: Taksim.
Babylon Lounge TÜNEL
This cozy café-bar, little brother to the club Babylon, opened in November 2007, ideal as a pre-gig
venue or recovering from a hangover. Detox over fresh juices and comfort food—or maybe a cocktail
or beer to get the party started. Wooden floorboards, dim lighting, and minimalist décor are easy
on the eye. 4 Jurnal Sok, off Asmalilmescit. 0212 245 3800. Tram/
tunnel: Tünel.

Cadde-i Kebir

One of the cheapest café-bars in the area, this is an unpretentious place with a lovely outside area on the street, perfect for a beer and watching the Istiklal crowds go by. 7 Imam Adnan Sok. 0212 244 3372. Bus/metro:


This restaurant (see p 109) has a great location and is loved for its garden terrace in summer, with a plant-filled indoor bar and fashionable upstairs bar. This is a real hit with Istanbul’s thirty-something nightbirds, especially for its weekend DJ. 16 Hayriye Cad. 0212 245 Bus/metro: Taksim.

Dogatepe Café & Restaurant HISARÜSTÜ

Worth the 20min bus ride from Taksim on hot summer nights. Go for a terraceedge seat at the pricey bar for views over Rumeli Hisari (see p 45) and the huge Bosphorus bridge. Open daily till 2am. 4-6 Duatepe Parki, Nispetiye Cad. 0212 257 4391. Bus: 599C from Taksim.
Dersaadet KARAKÖY
Nothing overly stylish about this cheerful café-bar, located on Galata Fight for the best seats in the house at Leb-i Derya. bridge. This is the place to kick back with a tea, backgammon, beer, or nargile(waterpipe) watching boats cruise the Bosphorus, with music and live football on TV catering,
for all tastes. 20 Bogaz Tarafi, Alti Karaköy, Yeni Galata Koprüsü. 0212 292 7001. Tram: Karaköy.

Although also a restaurant and big brother to Leb-i Derya Richmond (see p 111), its tiny rooftop terrace in this unassuming neighborhood attracts young well-heeled professionals. Hang on to that stool if you find outdoor space or take in the lounge music, liqueur-laced tea, and carefully concocted cocktails. 7/F 57 Kumbaraci Yokuşu. 0212 293 4989. Bus/metro Taksim, then 10-min walk.


A new location for an old Cihangir favorite, this cafébar epitomizes Tünel’s emerging trendy side. Sink into comfortable armchairs overlooking the square for a cappuccino, or perch on a bar stool facing the huge mirror to see the reflection of beautiful people behind you. A meeting point of bohemians, fashion photographers, and expats. 186 Tünel Meydani. 0212 245 4028. Tunnel: Tünel.


Relaxed and crowded for weekend brunch, this mammoth café/bar is now as popular as its previous incarnation Leyla (see above). Think wooden floors, soft armchairs, and newspapers at weekends. 46 Akarsu Cad. 0212 244 5350. Bus/metro: Taksim.

Wooden floors, minimal décor, and creaky stairs to a gorgeous upper floor. The best seats are by the windows opening to the street. This popular café-bar is usually peaceful, a suitable refuge for lone women who don’t want to be disturbed. The daily menu is chalked up on the blackboard over the bar,
including breakfast and pastas. 4A Bekar Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 252 7100. Metro/bus: Taksim.
The House Café ORTAKÖY
Also a restaurant (see p 111) the outdoor decking comes alive on summer evenings. The bar staff love
making fruity cocktails, or sip a cold beer while watching the lights on the bridge change color. If it’s too chilly, the wooden-floored plantfilled interior is inviting. 1 Salhane Sok. 0212 227 2699. www.the AE, MC, V. Bus/ boat: Ortaköy.

Clubs and DJ Bars

360Istanbul BEYOGLU

In newly trendy Misir Apartment (see p 3) this terrace bar-club-restaurant is a hit with fashionistas. Glass walls mean enjoying the views even when it’s too cold for the terrace, and at weekends excellent house DJs Sashah and Tekin light up the dance floor until the wee hours. Line your stomach with international cuisine before sampling top cocktails. 9/F 163 Istiklal Cad. 0212 251 1042. Bus/metro: Taksim.
Angelique ORTAKÖY

One of Istanbul’s best-loved summer clubs with a Bosphorus-facing terrace, slick bar and restaurant. Forget the weekends (members only); phone ahead for the guest-list on week nights, then dress to get past discerning doormen. A wealthy young crowd parties to Turkish and European pop. International cuisine, including sushi is on the club’s decent menu. Free entry. 5 Salhane Sok, Muallim Naci Cad. 0212 327 2844. Bus/boat: Ortakoy.

This micro- brewery has a bit of everything. With huge brewing paraphernalia inside, regulars eat or watch live football on TV from street-facing tables. Through the back is the club, with DJ nights
including techno, dance or house (cover charge varies) or live local bands. 22 Balo Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 293 5690. Bus/metro: Taksim.

Dogzstar BEYOGLU

A friendly little club with a mixed crowd and three tiny floors that fill up by midnight (deserted before 11pm) at weekends. House DJs mix some of the edgiest sounds in town, from post-punk and drum-and-bass to electro-rock. From the glass-ceilinged top floor (hot but fully air-conditioned,
thankfully) pop downstairs to see a live band, usually something pretty unconventional. 3/F 22 Tosbaga Sok.y0212 244 1081. Closed Sun; no cover. Bus/metro: Taksim.

Electronic techno acts and DJs regularly perform in this club, loved for its great lighting, sound system and laser shows. Hard-core clubbers seek solace in the vast, dark space. Buy advance tickets for popular acts. 1-4 Arkasu Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 244 8567. Cover. Closed June-Sep. Tunnel: Tünel.

The garden’s fantastic mural make this rock bar a major draw in summer. An Istanbul institution for rock fans, live bands play almost nightly, mainly well-loved UK covers. Otherwise, DJs spins crowpleasers ranging from loud to glam rock, to a cross-section of ages. Summer Sundays have afternoon barbecues. 33 Siraselviler Cad. 0212 293 6100. Cover charge Friand Sat 20 TL. Metro/bus: Taksim.


After pizza or pasta (see p 113) the party starts, White-sofa chic style at Supper Club. when this summer restaurant transforms into a casually fashionable club at weekends (mid May–mid Oct).
Enjoy Bosphorus views to house DJ sounds, even better after a few vodka hazelnut shots. 149/1 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 6070. Bus: Tepebaşi.

More than just a club; movie stars, A–Z-list celebs, and financial whiz kids flock to be seen at this vast entertainment complex. You might get in early in the week (after making reservations) for
drinks and music on the terrace bar. Black-suited doormen are notoriously choosy; remember that gaudy (rather than tasteful glamour) is good. During winter the terrace closes and action transfers to the indoor club, decked out in black. Steep cover charge and drinks. 44 Muallim Naci Cad. 0212
259 5919. For the bar only, 50 TL per person (inc one drink). Boat/bus: Ortaköy.

A busy club, this has live rock and pop bands nearly every night, attracting a casual bunch of twenty-somethings in its cavernous interior. Yan Gastro bar has snacks and even full meals, like helim(halloumi) skewers and seafood lasagna. 5 Aslanyatagi Sok, Siraselviler Cad. 0212 249 1283. Cover charge. Bus/metro: Taksim.
Supper Club ORTAKÖY

Latest in the Europe-wide chain, opened in May 2008, where trendy young locals lounge on white sofas and dine on a four-course set meal à la candlelight, plus entertainment. Come here for an expensive drink (hopefully the staff will become more friendly), a dance on the decking to deep house, or just to recline to the late-night chill-out music bathed in lighting changing colors. 65 Muallim Naci Cad. 0212 2611 988. Closed Sun and Mon; no cover. Bus/boat:

Gay Nightlife

A popular club, packed at weekends, where young good-looking gay guys fill the dance-floor with a distinctly European feel. Look out for the aquarium in the dark chill-out room! On Friday and Saturday nights, the bar at the back is exclusively for lesbians. 3/1 Soganci Sok, off Siraselviler Cad. 0212 245 1718. Wed–Sat. Metro/bus: Taksim.

A homely café for gays and lesbians only, this is part drop-in center, friendly coffee bar and information point. It’s about armchairs, Scrabble and reading newspapers rather than cruisey
pick-up joint. The fantastic owner Nihal brews up tea, cooks up comfort food, and gladly helps gay visitors. If you’re new in Istanbul and want the low-down on the best clubs or gay-friendly hotels, this is your best starting-point. 3/F 7 Imam Adnan Sok, off Istiklal Cad. 0212 244 2592. Bus/metro: Taksim.
Otherside TAKSIM

Originally a gay restaurant, local gay guys love its chi chi feel, popular as much as a café-bar as a club. Cozy lounges, complete with chandeliers, contrast with the action on the dance floor, usually to popular European dance tracks. Karaoke every Thursday and Friday nights. 11/4 Lamartin Cad. 0212 235 7914. Bus/metro: Taksim.

New venue for Istanbul’s popular gay club, previously the place for local ‘bears’, it now attracts a more mixed crowd. Gay and straight women would also be welcome, but perhaps not at weekends when things get busy. Loud Turkish and Euro pop are the sounds, with plenty of seats and space for a chat upstairs, until everyone packs onto the dance-floor. Don’t think of getting there before midnight. 14 Ekrem Türk Sok. 0212 245 1653. Bus to Tarlibaşi Bulvari.
Cigarettes and Alcohol
Turks generally smoke like chimneys so a trip to Istanbul’s bars, cafés and clubs—especially traditional tea-houses with card-playing men—comes with plumes of smoke. Nargiles(fruity waterpipes) have made a resurgence among all ages, including young women. So what happens when the smoking ban hits Turkey on 1 July 2009? (Many Istanbul venues have already introduced a ban, including taxis, malls, offices and hotels.) Bars and clubs will be more pleasant and outside spaces smartened up, although winter months are the test, when venturing outside for a cigarette is a less attractive option. Regular increases in alcohol prices shock me; Istanbul is now on a par with New
York and London, mainly due to excessive taxation by the government. For local drinks, Efes beer and Turkish wines are good, but steer clear of domestic vodka and gin. Raki (aniseed liquor) is mixed with water.

Making Friends?

While Istanbul is generally safe, here’s a few hints for visitors: avoid the rare scam of a lone male tourist meeting a friendly chap on the street, being invited to ‘a great bar’ and ending up with ladies at his table and a colossal bar bill. If you’re in a seedy club, men should bear in mind that things aren’t always as they seem: Women may really be men and, in gay clubs, men could be rent boys. Homosexuality is illegal but tolerated here with many gay bars and clubs. For the newcomer, some gay clubs seem alarming with transvestites, transsexuals, bi, straight, and gay guys galore. The bars and clubs listed above are ‘safe’, where a lone tourist won’t feel out of place. Like most parts of the world, look after your wallet!

Filed under : istanbul

Istanbul Dining A to Z

Afyet Olsen!

Istanbul is improving its range and quality of international cuisine from Japanese to French, but you’ll be sampling many dishes from throughout Turkey. Especially in meyhanes (traditional restaurants),
meat and fish meals usually kick off with mezes (hot or cold starters): try börek (hot filled pastries), patlıcan soslu (smoked eggplant puree), dolma(stuffed vine leaves) or the wonderful ezme(spicy tomato dip). Fresh fish is usually grilled or fried (waiters will advise on the freshest). Kebabs from around the country include patlican kebap(cubed meat grilled with eggplant), Iskender kebap (lamb on pidebread (like naan) with yoghurt and tomato sauce) and of course many varieties of köfte(meatballs). As a vegetarian, I love Imam bayeldi(stuffed eggplant with tomato and onions) and seasonal varieties of zeytinyagli(vegetables cooked slowly in olive oil). End dinner with baklavaand fresh fruit, and wash it down with raki (local aniseed liquor). !erefe! (Most people will wish you ‘afyet olsen’, the local equivalent of bon appetite.)

OTTOMAN Here’s a good way to find out what the sultans ate, with menus based on palace archives.
Try specialty lamb casserole with apricots, almonds and honey, or baked melon stuffed with lamb,
veal and pistachios, reflecting Arab and Mediterranean fusion cuisine. Located next to the Kariye Museum (see p 20), its dining room is simple, the garden lovely in summer. 6 Kariye Camii Sok. 0212 534 8414. Entrées 20–35TL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus: 87.

Probably the area’s best bet for a good-value feed, this fresco-filled restaurant opened in 2007 and is popular with local office workers, especially for lunch. From Banyan’s stylish terrace. window-seats overlooking Misir Ç[email protected]’s stalls, feast on hunka begendil kabab(lamb stew with eggplant puree). Kids will enjoy thelunch buffet’s selection. 39/47 Misir Çarşisi. 0212 520 7878. Entrées 10–15TL, V. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Tram: Sultanahmet.


This familyrun restaurant in a traditional house is complete with dark wooden floors, pretty kilims, and a fabulous fish menu that brings middle-class Istanbullus flocking. Start with octopus salad or jumbo shrimps to get you in the mood for grilled fresh fish. Summers see tables spill out onto the peaceful courtyard. Reservations recommended. 1 Cankurtaran Cad. 0212 458 1824. Entrées 30–45 TL. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Tram to Sultanahmet or train to Cankurtaran.
With a huge terrace for summer (plus heaters) and a stylish dining area for winter, Banyan has been a
real hit since opening in 2004, with fresh Asian fusion food. Try the sakemarinated char-grilled fillet mignon, steamed seabass in banana leaves, or satay selection, accompanied by fruity cocktails. Weekends are busy, especially summer nights. Stylish and fun. 3 Salhane Sok, Muallim Naci Cad. 0212 259 9060. Entrées 31–42TL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily.
Bus/boat: Ortaköy.

One of many meyhanes(traditional restaurants) on noisy Nevizade Sokak, this has distinct Armenian flavors as well as favorite Turkish mezes. You’ll find many mezeshave a nutty addition to their ingredients. Perennially popular, try the (noisy) street-level tables or slightly quieter terrace, and check with the waiters for the freshest fish of the day. 19 Nevizade Sok. 0212 243 1219. Entrées 15–20 TL. MC, V. Bus/funicular: Taksim.
Brasserie Nişantaşi NISANTASI EUROPEAN

The perfect respite between chi chi boutiques, the über stylish terrace is the place to be seen with your new purchases. Sip a glass of wine with pasta, or nibble a healthy salad from the mirrored bar with huge chandelier. Perfect style and make-up, and that’s just the staff. 23 Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 0212 343 0443. Entrées 15–25TL. AE, MC, V. Métro: Bourse.

Café du Levant HASKÖY
FRENCH A cozy hideaway bistro by the Rami Koç Museum (see p 43), the flower-filled bar, art nouveau posters and photo-laden walls set the scene for top-notch French cuisine. Feast on bonfilewith mush- rooms followed by (of course) crème brulée for a decadent, to taste several dishes. With Indian
art on ochre walls and tiled floors, the terrace is fabulous for summer evenings, overlooking Haghia
Sophia (see p 7). 10 Incili ÇavuşSok, Alemdar Mah. 0212 513 7308. Entrées
15–22TL; set meal 31 YTL. AE, MC, V. Daily lunch and dinner. Tram: Sultanahmet.
This waterfront venue with outdoor tables and a heated pavilion in winter, serves Ottoman dishes with
contemporary twist, like roasted pomegranate-glazed duck or octopus with cinnamon. The terrace is
loved by visiting celebs for the view of Ortaköy’s mosque and Bosphorus Bridge. A great choice for a romantic treat; reservations highly recommended. 40 Ciragan Cad. 0212 227 2216. Entrées 25–35TL. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus/boat: Ortaköy.

Superb views from the Swissotel’s rooftop (see p 147), which has a cozy and romantic feel. The short menu has seasonal dishes with a couple of meat, fish and seafood options, perhaps steak in red wine sauce, or seared salmon. Everything is beautifully presented, with imaginative desserts ending the meal perfectly. Booking essen- tial; indoor seating in winter. Swissotel the Bosphorus, Bayildim Cad. 0212 326 1100. Entrées 35–60YTL. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily dinner, summer
months only. Metro or bus to Taksim, then taxi.

Originally the priests’ living quarters for adjacent Aya Triyada church (see p 53), the back section has fantastic murals, and the original fountain that spouted wine for booze-loving priests. Try traditional
Ottoman dishes like lamb shank with eggplant; friendly staff will point out dishes to help you choose.
39 Istiklal Cad. 0212 244 1886. Entrées 18–25TL. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–1am. Bus/Metro: Taksim.
This is my favorite place for gözleme (stuffed pancakes) with meat, spinach, or potatoes. A great lunch
spot, there are good choices for vegetarians, like hingal, (potatofilled ravioli), plus mercimek (lentil
soup) and çoban salata (shepherd’s salad) for a filling and cheap pitstop. 26 Çukurlu Çeşme Sok, off
Büyük Parmakkapi Sok. 0212 293 7531. Entrées 4–10YTL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus, or
tram/funicular to Taksim.
Hamdi Et Lokantasi EMINÖNÜ TURKISH

Although popular with tour-groups, try and book a seat with that unbeatable Bosphorus view. Spread over four floors, Hamdi has a fabulous selection of kebabs from southeast Turkey, includinghouse specialties erikli kebap (minced sucking lamb) and testi kebap stew for groups of ten. Settle inside for your coffee and baklava, baked downstairs. 17 Kalçin Sok, Tahmis Cad. y0212 528 0390. Entrées 12–20 TL. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Tram: Eminönü.
This is where stylish Nişantaşi meets an earthy lokanta. Traditional dishes include lamb shank with smoked eggplant purée and köfte (meat-balls), and if you need some recommendations the staff are happy to advise. The large dining room spills out onto a tiny, pretty patio. 21 Mimar Kemal Öke Cad. 0212 225 4665. Entrées 16–21TL. Lunch and dinner daily. Minibus: Nisantasi (from Taksim).


I never get bored of gazing at the walls here, adorned with scenic photographs by Istanbul ace Ara Güler (who dines here most lunchtimes). Inside gets buzzing on chilly evenings with cultured locals
of all ages feasting on pasta and köfte, with the large courtyard a real bonus. 8 Tosbaga Sok, off Yenicarsi Cad. 0212 245 4105. Entrées 10–18TL. MC, V. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Bus/tram: Taksim, then walk.
Istanbul Modern Café & Restaurant TOPHANE MODERN EUROPEAN

Attached to the fantastic museum (see p 17), afternoon sees ladies-who-lunch dining on the terrace on risotto or home-made linguini. When evenings heat up, there’s hardly space on the terrace. For those chilly nights, the bar faces a long mirrored wall so no one needs miss a thing. Fish is pricey; meat dishes are better value. 4 Antrepo, Liman Işletmeleri Sahasi, Meclis-I Mebusan Cad. 0212 292 2612. Entrées 15–56TL. AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Mon-
Sat; breakfast and lunch Sun. Tram: Tophane.
Sixth floor and glass-fronted with panoramic views, this stylish restaurant is famed for its 40-spiced beef fillet, plus international dishes like lime and ginger chicken. The slick white bar serves fresh fruit cock- tails, open till late, served by young, white-clad, and improbably trendy staff. 6/F Richmond Hotel, 227 Istiklal Cad. 0212 243 4375. Entrées 25–40 YTL. AE,
MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily.
Housed in the renovated French Pasaj known as Nu Pera, this winteronly restaurant (see Nu Terasfor
summer) has a contemporary yet cozy interior on a quiet street. Try the moules Marinere and braised
lamb shank, and watch the bar lights subtly change color. (No, you haven’t been drinking too much.)
Relaxed and stylish with friendly service, this transforms into a club at weekends. 149/1 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 Entrées 22–35TL. AE, MC, V. Dinner daily. Closed mid May–early Oct. Bus: Tepebaşi.
Lokanta Helvetia TÜNEL TURKISH

Cozy, with exposed brick walls and large wooden tables, this is popular for its reasonable prices. As a
vegetarian, I love a plate of delicious mixed hot and cold dishes like potato with lentils or roast peppers in oil, and carnivores have a good choice of chicken and lamb dishes. Great for those who love Tünel’s trendiness but can’t afford it, think quick filling meal rather than lingering dinner. Z12 General Yazgan Sok. 0212 245 8780. Entrées 10–15TL. No CCs. Daily lunch and dinner. Tunnel: Tünel.


A no-frills barbecue joint with tables on the pavement, the Antakya-born owner serves up the freshest of grilled kebabs. Try spicy Urfa or milder Adana (lamb) kebab, or good old chicken wings, with piles of salad and fresh bread. Probably the cheapest dinner in town. 113 Ipek Sok, off Küçük Parmakkapi Sok. 0212 243 0585. Entrées 5–8TL; no CC. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus or metro/funicular: Taksim.

Ascend the Marmara Pera Hotel elevator to the terrace and some superb Scandinavian/Turkish fusion cuisine, heavy on meat but not on the stomach. Decked out in chic black and pale wood, with two levels of terrace tables with Golden Horn views, finish up with after-dinner cocktails by the pool to the in-house DJ’s soothing sounds. The late-night bar is popular with wealthy thirtysome-things at weekends. Reservations recommended. 167 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 293 5656. Entrées 35–50 TL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Bus to Tepebaşi.

Co-owner of this finedining restaurant, Coşkun Uysal is one of Turkey’s rising stars, who cut his teeth at Jamie Oliver’s ‘Fifteen’. Opened in November 2007, his experimental cuisine introduces lamb with jasmine tea jelly and panfried red mullet with truffle mousse. Über-stylish décor with white walls and a splash of contemporary art; DJs from Nu Teras (see p 124) play at weekends to well-heeled foodies. 67 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 6089. Entrées 20–35TL. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner Mon–Sat. Closed Jun–Sept. Bus: Tepebaşi.

Oozing style, with open kitchen and huge windows, the best feature of this restaurant, attached to the Sabanci Museum, with exhibits of calligraphy, is the huge terrace. With light lunchtime dishes, it’s all gourmet food for dinner (think grilled lamb loin with quince sauce) changing seasonally, making it a hit since opening in late 2005. Sakip Sabanci Müzesi, Atli Kosk, 22 Sakip Sabanci Cad. 0212 323 0901. Entrées 22–49TL. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. Bus: Emirgan.
Summer months see Lokanta (see p 111) decamp to this rooftop restaurant. Enjoy eye-popping Bosphorus views with great mezes, pizza, and pasta around the open kitchen. 149/1 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 6070. Entrées 22–35TL. AE, MC, V. Dinner daily. Closed early Oct–mid May. Bus: Tepebaşi.
Cakes, puddings, ice-creams…the menu at this popular café is lengthy and fabulous. Great for a post-dinner coffee and dessert—[email protected] with dried fruit and chopped almonds is wonderful—grab a balcony seat overlooking Istiklal Caddesi. Other city-wide branches arearound
town.206 Istiklal Cad. 292 9678. Desserts 7–15YTL. MC, V. Morning tolate night daily.
Treat yourselves on the waterfront in Istanbul’s posh neighborhood for fresh fish, usually simply grilled or fried. Kick off with grilled calamari and go for anything in season. Check with the waiters, who will
advise you whether prices on the menu are per portion or per kilo. 58 Cevdetpaşa Cad. 0212 263 3823.
Entrées38–60YTL. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus: Bebek.

Spread over four tiny floors, two with open fires, this friendly restaurant with brick and terracotta walls has Turkish dishes like chicken with rice, raisins, and pine-nuts, and international choices including  risotto. A print house until renovated in 1994, winter evenings are snug and candlelit, summers see everyone trying for the tiny terrace. 8 Ticarethabe Sok, off Divan Yolu. 0212 512 0008. Entrées 15–25 TL. AE, MC, V. Daily lunch and dinner. Tram: Sultanahmet.

FISH Fish is always pricey in Istanbul, good fish even more so. But this perennially popular restaurant is loved by well-heeled locals, for rich mezesand simple fried fish or hearty bugulama (fish stew). Book a waterfront table for a touch of romance. 1 Yahya Kemal Cad. 0212 263 2997. Entrées 40–75TL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus: 25.

A charming homely café in a 200-year-old wooden house, ‘village’ breakfast is served all day, including clotted cream, fresh eggs and grilled peppers; evening menu includes local favorites like manti (ravioli) and köfte (meatballs). The street-level is semi-alfresco for summer, and houses many of the owner’s collectables, like wooden furniture and ceramic nick-nacks. 36A Yahya Kemal Cad. 0212 358 2324.
Entrées 15YTL. Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bus: 25
A branch of the famous US Saf (the Turkish for Pure) this is perfect for a tasty detox from all those kebabs, as everything here is organic, raw (or cooked under 48°) and unbelievably healthy. Tasty wraps, maki rolls, fresh juices, and cakes are all vegan and seasonal. 70 Mesrutiyet Cad. 0212 245 7870. Wraps 10–15TL. MC, V. Oct–Apr; lunch and dinner daily. Bus: Tepebaşi.

Even if you can’t afford a night here, enjoy a romantic (but pricey) dinner in the garden’s glasswalled gazebo. It might lack local atmosphere, but the quality of seasonal dishes is good. Typical choices include thyme-roast chicken or fresh seafood pasta. A children’s menu is also available. 1 Tevkifhane Sok. 0212 638 8200. Entrées 30–45 TL. AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Tram: Sultanahmet.
Sirkeci Balikcisi SIRKECI
SEAFOOD This new fish restaurant keeps prices down but doesn’t lack quality. On a quiet side-street with a few outdoor tables and rooftop terrace in summer, the assorted fish platter is a great way to kick off. Then choose from freshly caught fish, served grilled, fried or steamed. Simple and delicious, with good service. 5 Taya Hatun Sok. 0212 528 4344. Entrées 20–30TL. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Tram: Sirkeci.

One of the best meyhanesin the area, this is a cozy place with a charming host, mustard-walled interior and small terrace with outdoor heaters. Away from the crowds, you can enjoy hot and cold mezeslike my favorite semizotu(purslane in garlicky yoghurt) and dolma(peppers stuffed with meat) washed down with local Efes beer. 9 Sofyali Sok. 0212 245 0362. Entrées 25-40 TL. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Bus to Tepebaşi.

With a stunning hill-top location in Ulus Park, Sunset is always full, with superb dishes ranging from sushi, seabass and T-bone steak. The menu caters for locals wanting modern European and visitors prefering to try traditional Ottoman cuisine. The decked terrace is perfect on summer evenings; daytimes see business lunches and wealthy ladies. Adnan Saygun Cad, Yol Sok, Ulus Park. 0212 287 0358. Entrées 50–75 TL. AE, DC, MC, V. lunch Mon–Sat; dinner daily. Taxi.
My favorite for an all-day breakfast of menemen(sloppy egg dish with tomatoes and peppers). Although it has a fabulous ornate ceiling, this isn’t as formal as it looks, with standard Turkish dishes like kebabs,
soups and salads. Try a table by the upstairs window overlooking Istiklal Caddesi. 7 Istiklal Caddesi. 0212 251 3270. Entrées 8–12 YTL. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus or tram/funicular: Taksim.

With several (and more opening) branches city-wide, this is the best, with chic and informal dining area and vast waterfront terrace. Think stylish comfort food, with innovative pizzas and salads plus children’s menu, and delicious brunch like Eggs Benedict. Popular with upmarket bohemian locals, especially for after-work cocktails—delicious! Weekends see the bar pumping till dawn. 1 Salhane Sok. 0212 227 2699. Entrées 20–30TL. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Bus/boat: Ortaköy.

Opened in late 2007, floor-to-ceiling windows have staggering Bosphorus views, with a menu to match. Dishes favor meat and fish, expertly cooked and presented with lovely service. Guest chefs bring their own individual cuisine to the menu, and the in-house DJ plays just the right level and mood of music. 50 Inönü Cad. 0212 249 1001. Entrées 30–50TL. AE, DC, MC, V Lunch and dinner daily. Bus/Metro: Taksim.

With Bosphorus views from a rooftop terrace, this is where the beautiful people dine on top sushi. Settle on the terrace’s soft white seats (indoors in winter) with contemporary cuisine, like braised zucchini rolls and hot chestnut cake; Sunday buffet brunch is a highlight. Reservations essential.
13/F, 48 BJK Plaza, A-Blok, Spor Cad . 0212 227 2545. Entrées 30–60 TL. AE,
DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus to Beşiktaş.

This top-notch new restaurant imported from London fits well into Ortaköy’s trendy dining scene, and one for a splurge; try the tasting menu or select from crispyfried squid or miso black cod. The first floor opens onto a terrace, with sushi bar and Japanese robati grill, all earthy wood tones and sleek sofas. Dress to impress; reservations essential. 7 Salhane Sok. 0212 236 Entrées 25–60 TL. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. Bus/boat: Ortaköy.

Food and Drink Basics
Breakfast kahvaltı kah-valtuh
Lunch ögle yemegi ur-leh yeme-i
Dinner akşam yemegi aksham yeme-i
Beer bira bira
Soft drinks meşrubatlar meshrubatlar
Mineral water su su
Starters (assorted) meze meh-zeh
Red/white wine kırmızı/beyaz şarap kurmu-zu/beyaz sharap
Dessert tatlı tat-lu
Fish balık baluk
Aubergine patlıcan pat-lu-jan
Chicken tavuk tavuk
Meat et et
Eggs yumurta yumurta
Beans fasulye fasul-yeh
Bread ekmek ekmek
White cheese peynir peynir
Anchovy hamsi hamsi
Fried tava tava
Grilled izgara izgara
Tomato domates do-mah-tes
Savoury pastries börek burek
Meatballs köfte kuf-teh
Vegetables w/olive oil zeytinyagli zeytin-yarluh
Turkish coffee Türk kahve Turk kar-veh
Tea çay chay
Juice suyu su-yu
(Lentil) soup (mercimek) çorba (mer-ji-mek) chorba
Rice pilav pilav
Salad salata salata
The bill, please Hesap, lütfen hesap, lutfen

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