Princes’ Islands

This group of islands off Istanbul’s southeast coast has enjoyed a colorful history: Summer houses for Istanbul’s elite, haven for Jewish, Greek, and Armenian minorities and exile for ‘White Russians’ in the 1940s. These days, locals flock here in summer for day trips of cycling, swimming, and car-free exploring—a blissful novelty after congested Istanbul. It’s impossible to cover all nine islands in a day, so here’s an energetic day divided between the two largest, Heybeliada and Büyükada. On each, you can walk, cycle, or hire a phaeton (horse and trap), depending on mood and energy levels. Stick to weekdays if you want to avoid the crowds. START: Heybeliada ferry pier.

1- Deniz Lisesi (Naval High School).

You’d be hard pushed to miss the huge waterfront naval school as you leave the ferry pier on Heybeliada (literally ‘Saddlebag Island’ due to its shape). Originally the Naval War Academy set up in
1852, it’s been a high school since 1985, and the white façade makes a striking sight. It is closed to the pub- lic and uniformed cadets on patrol will prevent you taking photographs close up. Heybeliada Iskele.
2- Hagios Nikolaos Church.
Dominating the village’s main square, the church was dedicated to St Nikolaos, the patron saint of
mariners, and celebrated 150 years in 2007. Like most Greek orthodox churches it’s unlikely to be open outside Sunday services, which are attended by around 30 locals, although it’s worth a try. Inside, it’s adorned with gold, chandeliers and frescoes, with the tomb of Patriarch Samuel I behind the altar. Opposite the church on the square are several bicycle hireshops, and also cafés. If you choose to continue your journey in the relative decadence of a phaeton, head back to the ferry
pier for the rank. Belediye Meydani, Ayyildiz Caddesi. Service: Sun 9–11am.
3- Ismet Inönü Evi.

A 15 minute walk along Refah Şehitler Caddesi brings you to a wooden mansion, and an historical one to boot. Now a house museum, this was part-time residence of Ismet Inönü, president of the new Republic of Turkey for 12 years from 1938. He originally rented the house with his family during a bout of poor health in 1924, but bought it in 1934 (with furniture given by Atatürk) and he lived here until his death in 1973. The house is perfectly preserved, from his book-filled office—with the original ink-well on the desk—to his daughter’s cartoon stickers on her wardrobe. I love the photographsn the walls; not just the formal portraits but holiday snaps of the family in bathing suits enjoying Heybeliada’s beaches. .45 min. Şehitler Caddesi. 0216 351 8449. Admission free. Closed Nov–Mar;
open Tues–Sun 9am–5pm.
4- Cam Limani (Cam Bay).
Depending on how far you want to walk, cycle, or ride, continue along Refah Şehitleri Caddesi, following it around until you descend to the small bay of Çam Limani, a beautiful walk with woods, fields and the odd glimpse of the sea, taking almost an hour. If in doubt, follow the road which the horse and carriages take. Although not picturesque golden sands, the bay is a good spot to rest
on sun loungers or swim off the wooden pier. From here, go back along Gemici Kaynagi Sokakuntil
you pass Deniz Lisesi1on your right, and the ferry pier, from where you sail to Büyükada.
5- Büyükada Iskele (Büyükada Quay).

After a 15 minute journey, ferries arrive at Büyükada’s(Big Island) striking quay. Hang back to admire the tiling on the upper front façade of the terminal. Built in 1914, this replaced the wooden quay built in 1899, and was used as the island’s first movie hall between 1950-51. Its octagonal hall still stands, from where you can try to get a map of the island from the (rarely open) tourist office.
6- Bicycle hire.

If you prefer to explore the island on two wheels, head to the small collection of bicycle hire shops on Çinar Caddesi,with kids’ bikes and tandems also available. Marmara Bisiklet, 10 Çinar Caddesi. 0216 382 5896. Approx 2 TL/hr; 7 TL/day.
7- Çankaya Caddesi.

If walking up to Aya Yorgi (St George’s) Monastery, a long but rewarding hour’s walk, I recommend taking the longer but more picturesque route along Çankaya Caddesi. Lined with grandiose wooden mansions, its previous residents included Ottoman diplomats, painters, princes, and lawyers, and allegedly Leon Trotsky. My favorite is #44, an ageing white mansion, now headquarters of the Kaymakam(district governor). The façade needs sprucing up, but it’s a highlight of the street’s grandeur and, as a public building, you can approach the main entrance for a closer look.

8- Büyükada Kultur Evi.

With a 50-year-old phaeton in the garden, this mansion has been converted into a cultural center, housing exhibitions and summer concerts. Build up your strength with tea and snacks on the terrace for the big walk ahead. 21 Çankaya Cad. 0216 382 8620. $$.
9- Aya Yorgi Manastir (St George Monastery).

You may opt for a phaeton for this long uphill route, although the walk is fantastic. Steel yourself for the final, steepest mile on a rough cobbled track, or hire a donkey at the bottom (bargaining essential). On your way up you’ll pass bushes on the left with strips of fabric attached, each representing a prayer, usually from women wishing for a child. The bell tower is your first glimpse, before you pass through the tiny courtyard (where women should don headcovering and cover legs). The wishes theme continues inside the sixth-century monastery’s silent, remote interior. On the right, you’ll see a large glass container into which people place their written prayers. If you’re surprised to see so many locals making wishes, bear in mind that people of all religions believed (and still do) that the highly revered St George performed miracles. Thousands of worshippers make the trip for the auspicious days of 23 April and 24 September, when all wishes are thought to come true. It’s your decision if youwant to brave the crowds totryit out! 1 hr. Yüce Tepe. Admission free. Open daily 9.30am-6pm.

10- Yücetepe Kir Gazinosu.
This simple restaurant adjacent to the monastery is perfect for its hilltop terrace with panoramas of other Prince’s Islands. Good-value mezes, kebabs, fried eggplant with yoghurt, and beers make this a fantastic refueling spot.Yüce Tepe. 0216 382 1333. $$.

Practical Matters
Ferries and sea-buses leave from Kabataş (see p 163), with more leaving during the summer (16 June–16 September). Fast ferries take around 35 mins to reach Heybeliada, then a further 15 minutes to Büyükada. Check at the ferry pier for times (0216 444 4436; www.ido.com.tr/en). Slow ferries take about 90 mins from Kabataş to Büyükada. Each ferry has seats on the small deck at front and back,
or along the sides of the boat, and simple refreshments are served on board. Buy a jeton (token) before boarding, or use your akbil (see Getting Aroundp 164); single journeys cost about 1.50–2.50 TL.