Dominated by two major landmarks,Kapali Çarşi (Grand Bazaar) and Süleymaniye Camii, Beyazit is chock-full of history and a center of commerce for centuries. From Eminönü, you’ll pass a busy working area filled with hans(workshops) and sounds of hammering and chiselling, contrasting to the ethereal mood of the vast Süleymaniye mosque. START: Metro or bus to Eminönü.
1- Süleymaniye Camii (Mosque).
Mimar Sinan’s greatest mosque in the city, Süleymaniye perches atop the highest of Istanbul’s seven hills. Once you’ve enjoyed its newly renovated serene interior and huge ornate domes, visit Süleyman I’s tomb and rose gardens and explore the grounds. Inso-called ‘addicts alley’ where opium and hashish were once sold from cafés, the traders now specialize in equally pleasurable kuru fasulye (white beans). Look out for ‘Süleymaniye Kütüphanesi’ sign and take a peek; this was once part of the mosque’s medrese(religious school) and now a library for students. Close by, the old ospital and asylum is now a fully functioning women’s hospital; it’s reat that most of Sinan’s kuliye (complex) is in use today. If you’re walking down Mimar Sinan Caddesi, look out for metalworker Zafer-Iş (#40E) which hammers out copper and chrome household goods.
@1 hr. See p 8 for details.
2- Lale Bahçesi.
A good choice for tea, nargile(waterpipe) and even a burger in this sunken tea garden, part of the old
imaret(kitchen) complex that once fed the city’s poor. It’s now popular with local students and religious
courting couples. 12 !ifahane Sok, Suleymaniye Camii Yani. $.
3- Mimar Sinan’s tomb.
Thismodest tomb just outside the mosque’s main walls is exactly where the architect wanted to be, close to his favorite Istanbul creation. (I guess one advantage of being Sinan is being able to design your own tomb.) From the street you can catcha glimpse of the white tomb built from kufeki stone, with marble sarcophagus. The complex also has the tomb of Ali Talat Bey (1869–1922, a late-19th-century architect. @10 min. Corner of Mimar Sinan Cad and Fetva Yokuşu Sok.
4- Beyazit University Botanik Institut.
This makes an interesting little detour opposite Sinan’s tomb, especially for greenfingered visitors. A short distance from the main university campus, these gardens and greenhouses have a range of fruit trees, saplings and hybrids. Although not particularly colorful, one of the greenhouses has windows overlooking the Haliç (Golden Horn), one of theoddest places I’ve ever seen a banana plant! Labelling isn’t in English, but if you call ahead you might be able to arrange a brief tour in English. @15–30 min. 0212 455 5700. Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm. Closed pub hols. Free.
5- Beyazit Kulesi (Tower).
In Istanbul University’s gardens, Mahmoud II built this firewatch tower in 1749 to prevent the many fires in wooden buildings. Made from wood itself, it predictably burnt down in 1756, replaced by another (wooden!) tower in 1826—which also burnt down. Yes, hindsight is a wonderful thing, but it did seem blindingly obvious . . . Thankfully, the practical architect Senekerim Balyan (see Art &Architecturep 172) built a stone tower in Ottoman Baroque style in 1828, to which three floors were
later added. Since then it’s been used for navigation and meteorological purposes, and now rendered
redundant. Sadly it’s impossible to ascend its 250 wooden steps without tortuous bureaucracy from the
fire department, so instead admire its tiered exterior with balconies. @10 min. Tram: Universeti.
6- Hürriyet Meydani (Freedom Square).
The Old City’s largest public square, also known as Beyazit Meydani, is dominated by the ornate gateway to Istanbul University.Built in 393AD by Emperor Theodosius as Forum Tauri (Forum of the Bull), it once had the triumphal arch in the center decorated by bronze bull heads (see bullet 8). You might see a student demonstration, especially on Fridays, watched by vans full of armed riot police; if so, don’t hang around! Usually the square is peaceful, lined with simple cafés, carts selling simit (sesame bread), and headscarfed women selling seeds to feed the annoying pigeons. @20 min.
7- Calligraphy Museum.
This museum was once the medrese of the simple, stone Beyazit Mosque, later used as a library. Usually deserted, exhibits range from 14th-century Korans with intricate gold calligraphy to huge 19th-century tugras(signatures) of sultans, albeit some woodworm infested. Forbidden in Islam to depict the human orm, calligraphy was the art form of he Ottomans. Strange to think that Sultan Abdulhamid’s late-19th cenury tugrawas created in the same year as Van Gogh’s finest paintings. Check out the peaceful central courtyard—if open. @30 min. Hurriyet Meydani. 0212 527 5851.
Open Tues–Sat 9am–4pm. 3 TL. Tram: Beyazit.
8-Forum of Theodosius.
Nip across busy Ordu Caddesi to what’s left of the Triumphal Arch, built by Theodosius the Great, once
part of Beyazit Squarewith a vaulted roof and three passageways. I love this rather ramshackle pile of stones, discovered between 1948 and 1961, including columns with peacockfeather emblems, perhaps created to resemble tears. @15 min. OrduCad.
9- Beyazit Camii (mosque).
Built in 1501–1506, this was the city’s oldest imperial mosque, part of the külliye (complex) comprising hamam, medrese(now the Calligraphy Museum) and kitchen; the mosque itself was inspired by the Haghia Sophia(see p 7). Its serene courtyard houses the tomb of Beyazit II at the back of the gardens. (@15 min.) On your way to Sahaflar Çarşisi (see bullet 0) you’ll see sellers of tespi (prayer beads) and collectors’ items like foreign banknotes. On my last visit, a dealer offered me old Iraqi banknotes with Saddam Hussain’s portrait, for 5 TL. Bargain! @20 min. Hürriyet Meydani. Open daily 9am–dusk. Tram: Beyazit.
10- Sahaflar Çarşisi (Booksellers Bazaar).
Before books were first published in 1729, the written word was seen as a corrupting European influence, so only handwritten manuscripts were sold here. Today, the picturesque courtyard market specializes in text-books for local students, with some stalls selling photographic books on Istanbul,
calligraphy and miniatures. At the center, look out for the bust of Ibrahim Muteferrika who printed the
first books in Turkish in 1732. On my way to the Grand Bazaar, I can’t resist passing by the table-full of
sleeping kittens, looked after by the stallholder – unfortunately not for sale! @20 min. Sahaflar Çarşisi Sok. Open daily 9am–8pm. Tram: Beyazit.
11- Erenler.If you prefer tea with fruity nargile(waterpipe), this leafy courtyard adjacent to Çorlulu Ali Pa@a mosque is one ofmy favorites, packed with locals and—thankfully—prices to match. 36 Çorlulu Alipaşa Medressesi, Yeniceriler Cad. 0212 511 8853. $
12- Sefa.Packed with locals, this no-frills lunch spot is perfect for a brisk fill-up with lamb kebabs, chicken, and rice. 17 Nuruosmaniye Cad. $
13- Kapali Çarşisi (Covered, or Grand Bazaar).
From here, you’ll probably enter the vast Kapali Çar@isi via Beyazit Gate. Keep your eye on the signs, giving you an idea of directions. If not, enjoy getting lost! If you’re shopping for anything specific, don’t buy at the first place you see, especially if it’s a big buy; take abusiness card and shop around. The market retains elements of its centuries-old trading practices (although 16th-century merchants never bothered with the false charm), but TV screens suspended from the ceilings and cappuccinos bring it firmly into the 21st century. @Anything from 1 hr. See p 8 for details.
14- Çakmakçilar Yokuşu.
For a taste of traditional trading, head to two of Istanbul’s oldest hans, usually three levels of tiny workshops built around a courtyard, also used for storage. Hardly the place for souvenirs, these workshops still have tradesmen knocking out garments and wooden tools. Climb up to the top floor of the arcaded Büyük Yeni Hanto see its quiet courtyard. Further up busy Cakmakcilar Yokusu, an important hub of the bazaar quarter, Büyük Valide Han’s courtyard houses Cem Evi, a Shiite mosque. Ask around for directions to climb to the han’s roof, and you’ll be rewarded with a sea of rooftops, one of the city’s most interesting panoramas. From here, it’s an easywalk to the tram stations. @40 min. Hans –open Mon–Sat 9.30am–6.30pm. Tram: Eminönü.